Wool fibers are subjected to severe mechanical processing following scouring, which results in physical damage. This study investigates the role of physical processing in changing the physical and chemical properties of the fibers. Removal of surface-bound lipids following physical processing is minimal, but there are significant morphological changes related to an increase in the chemical susceptibility of the fibers to chemical attack. The finding is demonstrated by the more effective removal of bound lipids from fibers in the form of top than from aqueous scoured fibers.
Get full access to this article
View all access options for this article.
References
1.
1. Bomben, K. D., and Dev, S. B., Investigation of Poly (L-amino acids) by X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy, Anal. Chem.60, 1393–1397 (1988).
2.
2. Brack, N., Lamb, R., Pham, D., and Turner, P., XPS and SIMS Investigation of Covalently Bound Lipid on Wool, Surface Interface Anal.24, 704–710 (1996).
3.
3. Carr, C. M., Leaver, I. H., and Hughes, A. E., X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopic Study of the Wool Fiber Surface, Textile Res. J.56, 457–461 (1986).
4.
4. Gharehaghaji, A. A., and Johnson, N. A. G., Wool-fibre Microdamage Caused by Opening Processes, Part I: Sliver Opening, J. Textile Inst.84, 336 (1993).
5.
5. Gharehaghaji, A. A., and Johnson, N. A. G., Wool Fibre Microdamage Caused by Opening Processes, Part II: A Study of the Contact Opening Elements and Wool Fibre in Controlled Extension, J. Textile Inst.86, 402 (1995).
6.
6. Körner, A., Kalkbrenner, U., Kaufmann, R., Höcker, H., and Rivett, D. E., X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS) Measurements of the Wool Fibre Surface, in “Proc. International Wool Textile Organisation, Nice Meeting,” report no. 3, 1990, pp. 1-5.
7.
7. Negri, A. P., Cornell, H. J., and Rivett, D. E., Effects of Processing on the Bound and Free Fatty Acid Levels in Wool, Textile Res. J.62, 381–386 (1992).
8.
8. O'Reilly, D. F., Whitwell, J. C., Steele, R. O., and Wakelin, J. H., Properties of Apparel Wools, II: Modification of Fiber Surface during Worsted Processing, Textile Res. J.22, 441–447 (1952).
9.
9. Pham, D. K., Turner, P. S., Bateup, B. O., Christoe, J. R., and Billows, C. A., Microscopic Study into the Removal of Raw Wool Contaminants, Confidential Report WTC 95.32 Dec 95, CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology, Belmont, Victoria 3216, Australia.
10.
10. Pham, D. K., Turner, P. S., Bateup, B. O., Christoe, J. R., and Billows, C. A., Laboratory Studies into Low Temperature Scouring: The Method and Preliminary Study, Confidential Report WTC 95.33 Dec 95, CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology, Belmont, Victoria 3216, Australia.
11.
11. Ratner, B. D., Horbett, T. A., Shuttleworth, D., and Thomas, H. R., Analysis of the Organisation of Protein Films on Solid Surfaces by ESCA, J. Colloid Interface Sci.83, 630–642 (1981).
12.
12. Tucker, P. A., Reply to “Cuticle Scale Heights of Wools and Speciality Fibers”, Textile Res. J.69, 698 (1999).
13.
13. Ward, R. J., Willis, H. A., George, G. A., Guise, G. B., Denning, R. J., Evans, D. J., and Short, R. D., Surface Analysis of Wool by X-ray Spectroscopy and Static Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry, Textile Res. J.63, 362–368 (1993).
14.
14. Wood, E. J., Stanley-Boden, P., and Carnaby, G. A., Fiber Breakage During Carding, Part II: Evaluation, Textile Res. J.54, 419–424 (1984).