Ceramides extracted from wool fibers have proved to be beneficial in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations in the treatment and care of skin and human hair. This work sought to obtain internal wool lipid extract enriched in ceramides at pilot plant level without causing significant damage to the wool fiber. To this end, two extraction methodologies were performed using two solvents — acetone and methanol. Analyses of wool extracts were performed by thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated ionization detector, and chemical and mechanical evaluations of extracted wool were carried out. Larger amounts of ceramides were obtained when wool fibers were extracted with methanol than with acetone with some modifications of the fiber properties. This lipid extract could be a by-product with a high added value for the wool industry.
Coderch, L., Soriano, C., de la Maza, A., Erra, P., and Parra, J.L., Chromatographic Characterization of Internal Polar Lipids from Wool, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc.72, 715—720 ( 1995).
2.
Schaefer, H., and Redelmeier, T.E. , “Skin Barrier: Principles in Percutaneous Penetration,” Karger, Basel , Switzerland, pp. 55—58 (1996).
3.
Elias, P.M., Lipids and the Epidermal Permeability Barrier, Arch. Dermatol. Res. 270, 95—117 (1981).
4.
Körner, A., Petrovic, S., and Höcker, H., Cell Membrane Lipids of Wool and Human Hair Form Liposomes, Textile Res. J. 65, 56—58 (1995).
5.
Fonollosa, J. , Martí, M., de la Maza, A., Sabés, M., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., Thermodynamic and Structural Aspects of Internal Wool Lipids, Langmuir16, 4808—4812 ( 2000).
6.
Fonollosa, J. , Campos, L., Martí, M., de la Maza, A., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., X-ray Diffraction Analysis of Internal Wool Lipids, Chem. Phys. Lipids130, 159—166 (2004).
7.
de Pera, M., Coderch, L., Fonollosa, J., de la Maza, A., and Parra, J.L., Effect of Internal Wool Lipid Liposomes on Skin Repair, Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol. 13, 188—195 ( 2000).
8.
Coderch, L., de Pera, M., Fonollosa, J., de la Maza, A., and Parra, J.L., Efficacy of Stratum Corneum Lipid Supplementation on Human Skin, Contact Dermatitis47, 139—146 ( 2002).
9.
Coderch, L., Fonollosa, J., de Pera, M., de la Maza, A., Parra, J.L., and Martí, M., Compositions of Internal Lipid Extract of Wool and use Thereof in the Preparation of Products for Skin Care and Treatment, N° 9901541 (1999) España, PCT/ES00/ 004244 (2000).
10.
Kelly, R., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Vorwerk, E., and Coderch Negra, L. , Treating Hair or Nails with Internal Wool Lipids, US N° 60/774,606.
11.
Coderch, L. , Fonollosa, J., Martí, M., Garde, F., de la Maza, A., and Parra, J.L., Extraction and Analysis of Ceramides from Internal Wool Lipids, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc.79, 1215—1220 (2002).
12.
Coderch, L., Fonollosa, J., Martí, M., Garde, F., and Parra, J.L., Extraction and Analysis of Internal Wool Lipids in Particular Ceramide Compounds , in “Proceedings of the 10th International Wool Textile Research Conference,” Aachen, Germany, Report ST-11 (2000).
13.
Ramírez, R., Álvarez, J., Garay, I., Martí, M., Ramón, E., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., Ceramides from Wool Fibres by Supercritical Fluid Extraction, in “Proceedings of the 11th International Wool Textile Research Conference ,” Leeds, UK, Report H-116 (2005 ).
14.
Fonollosa, J., Martí, M., de la Maza, A., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., TLC-FID Analysis of the Ceramide Content of Internal Wool Lipids, J. Planar Chrom. 13, 119—122 (2000).
Schwan, A., Herrling, J., and Zahn, H., Characterization of Internal Lipids from Wool, Colloid Polym. Sci. 264, 171—175 (1986).
17.
Leeder, J.D. , The Cell Membrane Complex and its Influence on the Properties of the Wool Fibre, WoolSci. Rev. 63, 3—35 (1986).
18.
Statgraphics Plus for Windows, Manugistics, Inc., 2115 East Jefferson Street, Rockville, MD 20852—4999.
19.
Bondia, I., Sanchez, J., Manich, A.M., Martí, M., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., Chemical and Mechanical Wool Modification due to Ceramide Extraction, IWTO Barcelona Meeting, Report CTF 06 (2002).
20.
Martí, M., Manich, A.M., Ussman, M.H., Bondia, I., Parra, J.L., and Coderch, L., Internal Lipid Content and Viscoelastic Behavior of Wool Fibers, J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 92, 3252—3259 ( 2004).
21.
Anderson, C.A. , Leeder, J.D., and Taylor, D.S., The Role of Torsional Forces in the Morphological Breakdown of Wool Fibres during Abrasion, Wear21, 115—127 (1972).
22.
Allen, L.A., Bacon-Hall, R.E., Ellis, B.C., and Leeder, J.D., The Abrasion Resistance of Wool Fabrics, in “ Proceedings of the 6th International Wool Textile Research Conference,” Pretoria, South Africa, Vol IV, pp. 185—197 ( 1980).
23.
Feldtman, H.D. , and Leeder, J.D., Effects of Polar Organic Solvents on the Abrasion Resistance of Wool Fabric, Textile Res. J. 54, 26—31 (1984).
