Investigation of drape and crease recovery behaviors of woven fabrics produced from centipede yarns having different parameters

Abstract

In this research, the effect of centipede yarn production parameters – band yarn count and chain number – on drape and crease recovery behaviors of woven fabrics produced with these yarns were investigated. Polyester centipede yarns were produced on a Crochet machine with three different count (150, 300 and 600 denier) band yarns and three different chain numbers (10, 12 and 14 chain/cm). The centipede yarns were used as filling in the woven fabric construction. Drape coefficients of the fabrics were calculated from the drape measurements and the crease recovery angles of the fabrics were measured in the weft and warp directions. According to the analysis of variance results, it was proved that the drape and crease recovery behaviors of the woven fabrics from centipede yarns were affected by the centipede yarn structural parameters. Drape coefficients and crease recovery angles in weft and warp directions of the fabrics increased with the selection of higher chain numbers and coarser band yarns. Also correlations were determined between centipede yarn bending length, yarn-to-yarn friction and measured physical behaviors of the fabrics. The results of this study could provide researchers with information on how to determine the centipede yarn structural parameters for producing woven fabrics of centipede yarns with desired aesthetics and functionality.

Keywords

centipede yarn drapability crease recovery chain number band yarn count crochet machine

Fancy yarns present deliberate, decorative, continuous by repeatable and programmed effects of color and/or form, and they are used to create certain variations in their aesthetic appearance.^1–3 Because of the abundance of effects they noticeably enhance the aesthetic effect of the textile materials in which they are used.⁴ The assortment of them is very wide, and in recent years their structure has become more and more complex: they differ in their structural features, fiber components, way of manufacture, etc.^2,3

There are different technologies for the manufacture of them. The choice of the method for the most part depends on the desired effects.⁵ These yarns can be grouped into two classes according to the manufacturing methods. These methods are named as direct and indirect.

According to the indirect methods of manufacture, they are produced during initial stages of yarn processing, such as in mixing chambers, carding, drawing machines, roving frames and spinning machines. The indirect method, modifying the conventional processing technologies such as dyeing, raising, etc., produces the yarns as well.⁵

According to the direct method fancy yarn twisters, special knitting machines, etc., are used.⁶ Usually these yarns have a multithread structure composed of three components – core, effect and binder – but nowadays virtually new fancy yarns such as knitted ones have become better known. Textile designers prefer to use non-traditional fancy yarn structures such as tape yarns. Yarns knitted on weft or warp knitting machines have a tape yarn structure.

One type (knitted by forming two chains and inlay connected chains) is known as ladder-knit; another has a ribbon-type structure. Ladder-knit and ribbon-type yarns are produced on small-diameter circular knitting machines. Some knitted ones have an effect component – short or long lengths of yarn, bunches of roving, etc., and color effects as well; either type of yarn may be manufactured from filament or staple yarns.^5,6

Centipede yarn is a type of tape yarn that is produced using the warp knitting technique on a Crochet machine. The yarn is warp knitted by forming two chains and inlay connecting the chains. A hairy effect with piles is obtained by cutting the inlay between the chains. The length of the piles is determined by the distance between the adjacent chains. The resulting hairy yarn has a knitted chain structure and the chain number per unit length of the yarn affects the number of the piles protruding from the body of the yarn. The picture and the basic structure of a centipede yarn are shown in Figure 1.
Figure 1.
Centipede yarn image (own research) (a); centipede yarn form (b).⁵

In the literature, a paper about tape yarns presented some methods for calculating the linear density of fancy ribbon-type yarns and the determination of the area density and tightness factor of knitted fabrics produced from such yarns. Čiukas et al.⁶ proposed a method for calculating ribbon-type knitted yarn’s linear density and found that the linear density of ribbon-type knitted yarn depends upon the linear density of the initial yarn, stitch length and course spacing. In addition, an investigation was carried out by Tvarijonavičienė et al.⁷ for estimating the influence of knitting process conditions and washing on tensile characteristics of knitted ribbon yarns. Tensile properties of initial yarns and yarns obtained after de-knitting, using knitted and washed samples, were compared. They found that the tensile properties of ribbon yarns depend on the tightness of the knits. Another finding was that the process of washing knitted fabrics influences the changes in the structure and tensile properties of the polyacrylonitrile (PAN) and PAN/polyamide (PA) ribbon yarns. Turay et al.⁸ investigated the effects of the production conditions of ribbon-type yarns on the thermo physiological properties of knitted fabrics. The study established a strong correlation between the number of knitting needles and the thermal conductivity of the fabrics produced with these yarns. Finally, Nergis⁹ studied the effect of the properties of the component yarns on the final count, tenacity at break and appearance of ladder-knit fancy yarns, and an expression was derived to determine the final count of these ladder yarns in g/m. Ladder-knit fancy yams were produced using a range of take-up ratios and component yarns on a knitting machine that produces fancy yams. A good correlation between the measured and calculated counts of the knitted fancy yarns was obtained.

Up until now, while there have been researches on tape yarns, particularly on ladder-knit and ribbon types, there has only been one research on centipede yarns. The researcher investigated the influence of the centipede yarn parameters on the air permeability property of woven fabrics produced from centipede yarns.¹⁰ In spite of the wide use of tape yarns, no attempt has yet been made to investigate the drape and crease recovery behaviors of woven fabrics from centipede yarns. These physical properties are important for the fabrics woven with centipede yarns, because these yarns are particularly used as weft yarns in the drapery fabric structures. Drape, one of the most important properties of fabric, plays significant role in providing graceful aesthetic effects in drapery, tablecloths, home textiles and apparel fabrics.

The aim of this study is to fill this gap in the literature by contributing both to the examination of the most significant parameters governing centipede yarn production and to the investigation of the inter-relationships and specific influences of centipede yarn structural parameters, such as band yarn count and chain number, on drape behavior and crease recovery behavior of woven fabrics produced with centipede yarns.

Experimental details

Materials

Preparation of yarn and fabric samples

In this investigation, the centipede yarns were produced with the usage of different band yarn counts and chain numbers in order to investigate the effect of these parameters on the drape behavior of woven fabrics from centipede yarns. For this aim nine different centipede yarns were produced in the pile length of 5 mm with band yarn counts of 150 den (60 Nm), 300 den (30 Nm) and 600 den (15 Nm) and with chain numbers of 10, 12 and 14 chain/cm.

Characteristics of the component yarns selected for the production of centipede yarns are as follows:
chain yarn (the yarn for the basic chain weave): 100% polyester fully drawn yarn (PES FDY), 150 den (60 Nm)/72 f;

band yarn (the yarn for the pile): 100% PES drawn textured yarn (DTY), 150 den (60 Nm)/48 f, 300 den (30 Nm)/96 f, 600 den (15 Nm)/192 f.

A 750-F model Da-hu Crochet machine was used for all the centipede yarn production.

Afterwards, different drape fabrics were woven on a PS-type Dornier rapier weaving machine using the centipede yarns as filling in the fabric construction. The fabric weave type was 2/2 filling rib. The warp yarn was 100% PES DTY IMG (Intermingled) yarn, 50 den (180 Nm)/24 f. To avoid variation, the warp yarn was chosen identical to the yarn employed for the chain achievement. The warp and weft direction densities were 66 ends/cm and 7 picks/cm, respectively.

The linear density values of centipede yarns with different parameters are listed in Table 1.
Table 1.
Linear density values of the centipede yarns.^a

Band yarn count, denier (Nm)^a

Chain no/cm 150 den (60 Nm)/48 f 300 den (30 Nm)/96 f 600 den (15 Nm)/192 f

10 1526 (5.9) 1945 (4.6) 2395 (3.8)

12 1895 (4.7) 2306 (3.9) 2747 (3.3)

14 2195 (4.1) 2570 (3.5) 3110 (2.9)

^aValues in parentheses indicate the yarn linear density as Nm value.

Coding

The coding of the centipe yarns according to structural parameters is as follows:
C _a _, _b : (a) chain number; (b) band yarn count;

for a: one represents 10 chains/cm, two represents 12 chains/cm, three represents 14 chains/cm;

for b: one represents 150 denier (60 Nm) band yarn count, two represents 300 denier (30 Nm), three represents 600 denier (15 Nm);

for example, C_1,1 means that the centipede weft yarn, which has a structure of 10 chains/cm and is produced with 150 denier (60 Nm) count band yarn, is used to weave the rib fabric.

The coding of different centipede yarns is listed in Table 2.
Table 2.
Codes of the centipede yarns.

Band yarn count, denier (Nm)

Chain no/cm 150 den (60 Nm)/48 f 300 den (30 Nm)/96 f 600 den (15 Nm)/192 f

10 C_1,1 C_1,2 C_1,3

12 C_2,1 C_2,2 C_2,3

14 C_3,1 C_3,2 C_3,3

Methods

Drapability

Prior to the tests, all fabric samples were conditioned for 24 hours in standard atmospheric conditions (at a temperature of 20 ± 2℃ and relative humidity of 65 ± 2%).¹¹ Drape behavior of fabric is very important for fabric design and quality.¹² Drape, along with color, luster and texture, is an important factor affecting the aesthetics and dynamic functionality of fabric. Drape is the extent to which a fabric will deform when it is allowed to hang under its own weight.¹³ Drape depends on the fabric’s parameters, such as structure, yarn type and fiber content, as well as its finishing treatments.

Drapability tests of the woven centipede fabric samples were carried out with the help of a Fabric Drape Tester (SDL ATLAS, England) in accordance with ISO 9073-9.¹⁴ Drape coefficients (DCs, %) of the samples were determined by performing the tests on each fabric sample at five replicas. Figure 2 illustrates the draped configuration of the fabric.¹³
Figure 2.
Draped configuration of fabric.¹³

The DC (%) is calculated according to the weight proportion of the paper rings. The coefficient was calculated as follows:
$DC = (\frac{W_{2}}{W_{1}} \times 100)$
(1)
where W₁ is the initial weight of the paper ring before the drapability test and W₂ is the weight of the paper ring cut along the traced shadow configuration (shadow image).

A low DC indicates easy deformation of a fabric and a high DC indicates less deformation.

Crease recovery

Crease recovery refers to the ability of the fabric to return to its original shape after removing the folding deformations. Important factors that affect crease recovery are yarn twist, yarn density, yarn type and fabric thickness.

The crease recovery tests of the woven centipede fabric samples were carried out using a James H. Heal Crease Recovery Tester in accordance with the ISO 2313 test method.¹⁵ Crease recovery angles of the fabric samples were measured in weft and warp directions by performing the tests on each sample at five replicas. The magnitude of the crease recovery angle is an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from accidental creasing. A high crease recovery angle means better crease recovery of the fabric.¹⁶

Yarn friction

Yarn friction influences many properties, such as yarn strength, yarn and fabric stiffness and fabric crease recovery. Yarn friction tests were carried out in order to determine the relationships between yarn friction and drape and between yarn friction and crease recovery. Yarn-to-yarn friction tests were performed on a CTT LH 402 Yarn Friction Tester in accordance with ASTM D 3412-07.¹⁷ This test measures the frictional properties of the moving yarn as it is wrapped around itself with 37° angle.

Yarn stiffness

Yarn stiffness tests were done according to ISO 3375:2009. The test method is based on the suspension of a test piece of thread, 500 mm long, over a hook at its center with specified dimensions, and measurement of the separation of the two hanging ends of the test specimen at a standard distance of 60 mm below the suspension point.¹⁸

A suitable thread stiffness tester is shown in Figure 3.
Figure 3.
Yarn stiffness tester.¹⁸

Statistical evaluation

All statistical procedures were conducted using the SPSS 17.0 statistical software package. In the study, completely randomized two-factor analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used for the determination of the statistical significance of the yarn parameters on physical properties of fabrics. The means were compared using Student–Newman–Keuls (SNK) tests. The value of significance level (α) selected for all statistical tests in the study is 0.05. The treatment levels were marked in accordance with the mean values, and any levels marked by different letters (a, b, c) showed that they were significantly different.

In this study, for the purpose of data regression, the linear model given in (2) is used. The most common type of multiple-regression is linear multiple-regression, where a simple model relates several independent variables and a dependent variable with a straight line given as
$yk = a 1 x 1 + a 2 x 2 + b$
(2)
where ai are the coefficients of the independent variables and b is the bias term. The dependent variable yk is modeled by a linear relation. In the related models, n = 2 and the independent variables are chain number (x1) and band yarn count (x2). The multiple-regression model in (2) is a multi-input single-output system. Therefore, to obtain each dependent variable yk, a separate multiple-regression model is used. In this study the dependent variables predicted using the given model are drape behavior (DC, %) (y1) and crease recovery behaviors (crease recovery angle in the warp and weft directions, o) (y2, y3).

Finally, linear correlation coefficients were calculated in order to confirm the relationships between yarn stiffness and tested fabric physical properties and between yarn-to-yarn friction and tested fabric physical properties.

Results and discussion

Drapability

The diagrams of DCs of the fabrics woven with the centipede yarns are shown in Figure 4.
Figure 4.
Drape coefficient (%) values of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns having different chain numbers and band yarn counts.

The p-values associated with F-tests for a two-way completely randomized ANOVA and SNK test values for the drapability test results are presented in Tables 3 and 4, respectively.
Table 3.
Results of the variance analysis (P-values) for drape coefficient (%)

P-value

Parameter Drape coefficient (%)

Main effect

Chain number (N) 0.000 (s)^a

Band yarn count (C) 0.000 (s)

Interaction

N × C 0.933 (ns)

^as: significant; ns: non-significant.

Table 4.
Effect of chain number and band yarn count on drape coefficient (%) values of fabrics woven with centipede yarns, Student–Newman–Keuls test

Parameter Drape coefficient, %

Chain number (N)

10 chains/cm 31.33^(a)*

12 chains/cm 43.33^(b)

14 chains/cm 57.48^(c)

Band yarn count (C)

150 den (60 Nm)/48 f 40.70^(a)

300 den (30 Nm)/96 f 43.95^(b)

600 den (15 Nm)/192 f 47.48^(c)

SNK results; (a), (b), (c) indicate the range of significance for 95% confidence interval.

It was observed in Figure 4 that the minimum DC was measured as 28.5% from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₁₁ coded yarn) with 10 chains/cm and 150 denier count (60 Nm) band yarn, while the maximum DC was measured as 61% from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₃₃ coded yarn) with 14 chains/cm and 600 denier count (15 Nm) band yarn.

The results of the ANOVA given in Table 3 indicated that there were statistically significant (at the 5% significance level) differences between the DC values of fabrics woven with the centipede weft yarns with different chain numbers. Another aspect about the drapability results was that there were significant differences between the DC values of fabrics woven with the centipede weft yarns produced with different count band yarns. The effect of the interaction between chain number and band yarn count on drape behavior was insignificant.

To predict the DC values of woven fabrics, the linear model multiple-regression analysis technique was used and Equation (3) was obtained with an adjusted R² value of 0.994. This means that 99.4% of variation is explained by the model. F-test and t-test results are significant. This shows that Equation (3) can be used reliably to predict the DC values of centipede woven fabrics. The results of the t-test showed that all variables in Equation (3) were significant.

According to the prediction equation
$DC = - 39.510 + 6.538 \times CN + 0.015 \times BYC$
(3)
where CN is the chain number (chains/cm) and BYC is the band yarn count (denier).

Table 4 reveals that the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarn with different chain numbers possess statistically different DC values. The DC value for chain number 10 (in 1 cm) was 31.3%, while that for chain number 14 (in 1 cm) was 57. 5%. According to Figure 3, DC values of the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns of higher chain number are greater than those of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns of lower chain density. Chain numbers increased from 10 to 14 (in 1 cm), which led to an increase in DC values by 25–27%, depending on the band yarn count.

As the fabric construction parameters that influence the drape behavior of fabrics were kept constant in this study, it was obvious that centipede yarns’ chain number had a great influence on fabrics’ drape behaviors. This situation can be explained as follows: the chain density of the centipede yarn affects the linear density of the yarn at constant production conditions. The linear densities of the C₃₁, C₃₂, C₃₃ coded yarns (chain number: 14/cm) are greater than those of the C₁₁, C₁₂, C₁₃ coded yarns (chain number: 10/cm). The cover factors of the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarns having 14 chains/cm are greater than those of the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarns having 10 chains/cm, since the woven fabrics have the same weft density. Hence, the tightness property of the fabric samples is affected by this yarn constructional parameter. The coarse centipede yarns have the same chain yarns but their pile densities are greater than those of the fine yarns because of the high chain density. The increase in chain density renders the centipede yarn more rigid. In addition, the contact surfaces between the adjacent centipede yarns with dense pile and between these yarns and warp yarns are greater than those between the centipede yarns with sparse pile structure and between these yarns and warp yarns. Thus, the DCs of the fabrics produced with centipede yarns with high chain densities and dense pile structure increase. The most important reason for this finding is the increase in the collective movement ability of the centipede yarns.

It was observed that woven fabrics produced with centipede weft yarns with different count band yarns possessed statistically different DC values. The DC value for the 150 denier (60 Nm) band yarn count was 40.7%, while that for the 600 denier (15 Nm) band yarn count was 47. 5%. According to Figure 3, DC values of the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns with coarse band yarns were greater than those of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns with fine band yarns. Band yarn count increased from 150 denier (60 Nm) to 600 denier (15 Nm), which brought about an increase in DC values by 13–20%, depending on the chain number.

The reason for these findings was the looser structure of woven fabrics, with centipede weft yarns having finer band yarn counts. Centipede weft yarns’ linear density increase at constant weft density renders the fabric stiffer. It could also be concluded that the closer settlements of the coarser band yarns in centipede weft yarns’ structure could have minimized the movement capability of the centipede weft yarns in the woven fabric structure. As a result, drapability became more difficult. It is stated in the literature that woven fabric stiffness is influenced by the yarn types, fiber content, number of warp and weft yarns, linear density of warp and weft yarns, intersection points of warp and weft yarns and movement capability of the yarns in the weave.^19–21

Numerous studies have been conducted to study factors affecting the draping quality of fabric. It has been proved that the major mode of deformation in drape is fabric bending. The other mode of deformation is the sheer of fabric. Several researchers studied the factors related to drape.^22,23 They found that bending length and sheer stiffness have high correlation with DC. Also the frictional resistances within a yarn (inter-fiber friction) and between yarns (inter-yarn friction) influence fabric friction, fabric bending rigidity, fabric strength, creasing, abrasion resistance, tear resistance and fabric hand and comfort.

Figure 5 shows graphically the relationships between DC (%) values of the fabrics and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients (Figure 5(a)), and between DC (%) values of the fabrics and yarn bending length (Figure 5(b)).
Figure 5.
Relationships between drape coefficient (%) values of the fabrics and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients (a) and yarn bending length (b) of centipede yarns

It was observed that centipede yarns with higher chain numbers and coarser band yarn possessed higher bending lengths and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients. Yarn linear density has an increasing effect on friction due to an increase in the area of contact. As seen in Figure 5, the high value of correlation coefficients, which are obtained above 0.95, confirmed strong linear correlation relationships between the DC and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficient and between the DC and yarn bending length. Centipede yarns with higher yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients and yarn bending lengths had higher DCs.

Crease recovery

The crease recovery angle measurement results of the fabrics woven with the centipede yarns are shown graphically in Figure 6.
Figure 6.
Crease recovery angle (°) values of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns having different chain numbers and band yarn counts.

Calculated ANOVA and SNK test values for the crease recovery angle measurement results are presented in Tables 5 and 6, respectively.
Table 5.
Results of the variance analysis (P-values) for crease recovery angle (°)

P-value

Crease recovery angle, °

Paramete Weft direction Warp direction

Main effect

Chain number (N) 0.000 (s)^a 0.000 (s)

Band yarn count (C) 0.000 (s) 0.000 (s)

Interaction

N × C 0.000 (s) 0.001 (s)

^as: significant.

Table 6.
Effect of chain number and band yarn count on crease recovery angle (°) values of fabrics woven with centipede yarns, Student–Newman–Keuls test

Parameter Crease recovery angle °, Weft direction Crease recovery angle °, Warp direction

Chain number (N)

10 chains/cm 104.8^(a) 108.0^(a)*

12 chains/cm 118.6^(b) 118.1^(b)

14 chains/cm 132.2^(c) 132.3^(c)

Band yarn count (C)

150 den(60 Nm)/48 f 112.0^(a) 114.4^(a)

300 den (30 Nm)/96 f 119.1^(b) 118.2^(b)

600 den (15 Nm)/192 f 124.4^(c) 125.7^(c)

*SNK results; (a), (b), (c) indicate the range of significance for 95% confidence interval.

According to Figure 6, the minimum crease recovery angle in the weft direction was measured as 97.8° from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₁₁ coded yarn) having 10 chains/cm and 150 denier count (60 Nm) band yarn, while the maximum crease recovery angle in the weft direction was measured as 135.5° from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₃₃ coded yarn) having 14 chains/cm and 600 denier count (15 Nm) band yarn. The minimum crease recovery angle in the warp direction was measured as 105.0° from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₁₁ coded yarn) having 10 chains/cm and 150 denier count (60 Nm) band yarn, while the maximum crease recovery angle in the warp direction was measured as 135.8° from the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarn (C₃₃ coded yarn) having 14 chains/cm and 600 denier count (15 Nm) band yarn.

The results of the ANOVA performed for the crease recovery measurements for both weft and warp directions indicated that there were statistically significant (at the 5% significance level) differences between the crease recovery angle values of fabrics woven with the centipede weft yarns having different chain numbers (Table 5). Also there were significant differences between the crease recovery angle values of fabrics woven with the centipede weft yarns produced with different count band yarns. The effect of the interaction between chain number and band yarn count on crease recovery behavior was significant.

To predict the weft-wise and warp-wise crease recovery angle values of woven fabrics, the linear model multiple-regression analysis technique was used and Equations (4) and (5) were obtained with adjusted R² values of 0.945 and 0.939, respectively. This means that at least 93% of variations are explained by the models. F-test and t-test results are significant. This shows that Equations (4) and (5) can be used reliably to predict the crease recovery angle values of centipede woven fabrics. The results of the t-test showed that all variables in Equations (4) and (5) were significant.

According to the prediction equation
${CRA}_{weft} = 27.233 + 6.842 \times CN + 0.026 \times BYC$
(4)

${CRA}_{warp} = 37.917 + 6.067 \times CN + 0.025 \times BYC$
(5)
where CRA_weft is the crease recovery angle in the weft direction (°), CRA_warp is the crease recovery angle in the warp direction (°), CN is the chain number (chains/cm) and BYC is the band yarn count (denier).

The fabrics woven with centipede weft yarn having different chain numbers possessed statistically different crease recovery angle values both in the weft and warp directions. The crease recovery angle value in the weft direction for chain number 10 was 104.8°, while that for chain number 14 was 132.2°. The crease recovery angle value in the warp direction for chain number 10 was 108.0°, while that for chain number 14 was 132.3°. According to Figure 6, crease recovery angle values of the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns of higher chain number are greater than those of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns of lower chain density. The chain number increase from 10 to 14 (in one cm) led to an increase in weft-wise recovery angles by 19–31% and in warp-wise recovery angles by 20–25%, depending on the band yarn count.

Results explicitly showed the significant effect of centipede yarns’ chain number on fabrics’ crease recovery behaviors. This situation can be attributed to the fact that the chain density change led to a distinction in the linear density of the centipede yarn at constant production conditions. The linear densities of the C₃₁, C₃₂, C₃₃ coded yarns (chain number: 14/cm) are greater than those of the C₁₁, C₁₂, C₁₃ coded yarns (chain number: 10/cm). Therefore, the cover factors of the woven fabrics with C₃₁, C₃₂, C₃₃ coded yarns are greater than those of the fabrics with C₁₁, C₁₂, C₁₃ coded yarns, as all the fabrics were identical in constructional parameters. The cover factor affects the tightness property, hence the fabric with a higher cover factor will easily recover from the creased form. This means it will have a high crease resistance.

The fabrics woven with the centipede weft yarn with different count band yarns possessed statistically different crease recovery angle values, both in weft and warp directions. The crease recovery angle value in the weft direction for 150 denier (60 Nm) band yarn count was 112.0°, while that for 600 denier (15 Nm) band yarn count was 124.4°. The crease recovery angle value in the warp direction for 150 denier (60 Nm) band yarn count was 114.4°, while that for 600 denier (15 Nm) band yarn count was 125.7°. According to Figure 6, crease recovery angle values of the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns with coarse band yarns were greater than those of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns with fine band yarns. Band yarn count increased from 150 denier (60 Nm) to 600 denier (15 Nm), which brought about an increase in weft-wise recovery angles by 6–16% and in warp-wise recovery angles by 5–17%, depending on the chain number.

In the current study, although the fabric construction parameters were the same, the characteristic differences between the centipede yarns affected the crease recovery properties of the fabrics produced. Centipede yarns produced with coarser band yarns had a denser structure than those with finer band yarns. Consequently, the fabrics produced from centipede yarns with coarser band yarns had a denser structure than those produced from centipede yarns with finer band yarns. Accompanied with the high elastic recovery properties of coarser yarns, crease recovery angles obtained in fabrics produced from centipede yarns with coarser band yarns were higher than the crease recovery angles obtained in fabrics produced from centipede yarns with finer band yarns. The crease action applied on the fabric was shared by a higher number of band fibers in centipede yarns, which resulted in a better crease recovery in the weft and warp directions.

Figure 7 shows graphically the relationships between weft-wise, warp-wise crease recovery angle (°) values of the fabrics and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients (Figures 7(a) and (b)), and between weft-wise, warp-wise crease recovery angle (°) values of the fabrics’ DC (%) values of the fabrics and yarn bending length (Figures 7(c) and (d)). It was observed that there were increments in bending lengths and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients of centipede yarns with higher chain numbers and coarser band yarn count parameters. As seen in Figure 7, the high value of correlation coefficients that are obtained above 0.93 confirmed strong linear correlation relationships between crease recovery angle and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficient and between crease recovery angle and yarn bending length. Centipede yarns with higher yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients and yarn bending lengths had higher crease recovery angles.
Figure 7.
Relationships between weft-wise, warp-wise crease recovery angle (°) values of the fabrics and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficients (a),(b) and yarn bending lengths (c),(d) of centipede yarns.

Conclusions

This study was conducted in order to investigate the effect of centipede weft yarn production parameters, such as band yarn count and chain number, on drape and crease recovery properties of woven fabrics produced from these yarns. The woven fabrics were produced under the same fabric constructional parameters, such as fabric pattern, warp yarn, warp count, weft and warp densities.

The results of the research can be summarized as follows.
According to the statistical tests performed on the data set, it could be concluded that the chain number of the centipede yarn had a significant effect on the drape behavior of the woven fabrics. DC values of the fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns of higher chain number were greater than those of the fabrics woven with centipede yarns of lower chain density. This situation was explained as the chain density of the centipede yarn affected the linear density of the yarn at constant production conditions and thus the tightness properties of the fabrics were influenced.

Considering DCs of the fabrics, it was found that the DC significantly varied depending on the variations in band yarn count. DC increased as band yarn count increased. The reason for this was the stiffer structure of woven fabrics, with centipede weft yarns having coarser band yarn counts.

This study has evidenced that the woven fabrics with centipede weft yarns having different chain numbers and different count band yarns possessed statistically different crease recovery angle values in weft and warp directions. Fabrics woven with centipede weft yarns having higher chain numbers and coarser band yarns had more crease recovery angle values than those of the fabrics with centipede yarns of lower chain density and finer band yarns. As the chain number increases, the chain count per 1 cm of the yarn body increases; thus, the pile density and linear density of the yarn increases. Hence, an increase in tightness of the fabric structure was achieved. This rise is caused also by the fact that as the centipede yarn’s band yarn count increases, pile quantity at the surface of the woven fabric will increase and this situation renders the fabric denser. The centipede weft yarn linear density increase at constant weft density along with the high elastic recovery properties of coarser yarns are the reasons for the higher crease recovery angles.

Strong linear correlation relationships were obtained between the DC and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficient and yarn bending length, and also between the crease recovery angle and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficient and yarn bending length.

The findings about the effect of chain density and pile density of centipede yarns on the investigated fabric properties can be used to produce woven fabrics with desired physical properties, such as drapability and crease recovery.

Finally, it could be concluded that it will be useful to make further studies on determining the effect of centipede yarn parameters on other physical properties of woven fabrics. The physical properties that should be highlighted are breaking strength and tear strength.

Band yarn count, denier (Nm)^a
10	1526 (5.9)	1945 (4.6)	2395 (3.8)
12	1895 (4.7)	2306 (3.9)	2747 (3.3)
14	2195 (4.1)	2570 (3.5)	3110 (2.9)

Band yarn count, denier (Nm)
10	C_1,1	C_1,2	C_1,3
12	C_2,1	C_2,2	C_2,3
14	C_3,1	C_3,2	C_3,3

P-value
Main effect
Chain number (N)	0.000 (s)^a
Band yarn count (C)	0.000 (s)
Interaction
N × C	0.933 (ns)

Parameter	Drape coefficient, %
Chain number (N)
10 chains/cm	31.33^(a)*
12 chains/cm	43.33^(b)
14 chains/cm	57.48^(c)
Band yarn count (C)
150 den (60 Nm)/48 f	40.70^(a)
300 den (30 Nm)/96 f	43.95^(b)
600 den (15 Nm)/192 f	47.48^(c)

P-value
Main effect
Chain number (N)	0.000 (s)^a	0.000 (s)
Band yarn count (C)	0.000 (s)	0.000 (s)
Interaction
N × C	0.000 (s)	0.001 (s)

Parameter	Crease recovery angle °, Weft direction	Crease recovery angle °, Warp direction
Chain number (N)
10 chains/cm	104.8^(a)*	108.0^(a)*
12 chains/cm	118.6^(b)	118.1^(b)
14 chains/cm	132.2^(c)	132.3^(c)
Band yarn count (C)
150 den(60 Nm)/48 f	112.0^(a)	114.4^(a)
300 den (30 Nm)/96 f	119.1^(b)	118.2^(b)
600 den (15 Nm)/192 f	124.4^(c)	125.7^(c)

Footnotes

Acknowledgment

I would like to express my appreciation to the owner of the Çelikel Makina, Bursa, Turkey, Mr Mehmet Çelikel, for his contribution to the production of centipede yarns and I wish to thank to the owner of Mega Textile, Industry and Trade Co., Bursa, Turkey, Mr Erol Türkün, for the support during weaving operations.

Funding

This research received no specific grant from any funding agency in the public, commercial or not-for-profit sectors.

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Band yarn count, denier (Nm)^a
Chain no/cm	150 den (60 Nm)/48 f	300 den (30 Nm)/96 f	600 den (15 Nm)/192 f
10	1526 (5.9)	1945 (4.6)	2395 (3.8)
12	1895 (4.7)	2306 (3.9)	2747 (3.3)
14	2195 (4.1)	2570 (3.5)	3110 (2.9)

P-value
Parameter	Drape coefficient (%)
Main effect
Chain number (N)	0.000 (s)^a
Band yarn count (C)	0.000 (s)
Interaction
N × C	0.933 (ns)

P-value
Crease recovery angle, °
Paramete	Weft direction	Warp direction
Main effect
Chain number (N)	0.000 (s)^a	0.000 (s)
Band yarn count (C)	0.000 (s)	0.000 (s)
Interaction
N × C	0.000 (s)	0.001 (s)