Abstract
The objective of this study was to subject dry and damp sock fabrics to repeated compression cycles in order to determine the relative effects of fiber type (fine wool, mid-micron wool, acrylic), yarn type (high twist, low twist, single) and fabric structure (single jersey, half-terry, terry) on fabric compression and recovery from compression. Changes in fabric thickness were measured using a tensile tester and a number of parameters identified and analyzed: retained thickness, recovered thickness, compression to recovery ratio, energy absorption and energy absorption standardized for fabric thickness. The dominant factor was the number of compression cycles, with most change in the thickness retained and recovered evident within the first 10 cycles. The pattern of response of dry and damp fabrics was quite different with, the dry fabrics having a better compression to recovery ratio. Energy absorption was affected strongly by fabric structure, however this was closely related to initial fabric thickness. When fabrics were made damp, fabrics composed of acrylic fibers had a better compression to recovery ratio than fabrics composed of wool.
Protecting tissues of the foot from pain or injury caused by frequent impact is an important function of foot coverings, including socks, thus many types of footwear are designed to absorb shock from walking and running. Foot protection is particularly valuable to people who engage in frequent and extended periods of high impact locomotion (e.g. running, walking, hiking), military activities (long distance road marches carrying heavy loads), or who suffer from soft tissue and joint disorders such as joint degeneration, osteoarthritis, lower back pain, and rheumatoid arthritis.1,2 Footwear which has been designed to absorb shock may also have a positive effect on the health and comfort of people in occupations where a high percentage of their time is spent standing or walking. 3
Socks are increasingly being developed with padding for specialized end uses. For example, high density padding under the metatarsal heads 4 and/or heel in cushion-soled socks has been claimed to exhibit better shock attenuation properties than a bare foot or wearing a cotton sport sock. 5
Despite the relative importance of compression and impact absorption properties of socks, understanding has been limited to theoretical modeling of deformation of fibers and yarns independent of fabrics,6–12 literature on carpets (unpublished), or human wear trials.5,13,14 The effect of fabric compression on handle and drape has also been investigated.15,16 The importance of fabric structure on sock compression and capacity to absorb impact has been alluded to;14,17 however, further work is needed to fully understand how sock fabrics behave under compressive forces.
The relative effects of fiber type, yarn type and fabric structure on the compression and recovery from compression of sock fabrics is not yet known. Much of the focus on compression properties of socks has been on detecting differences between socks of differing fiber types.5,14 As expected, wool and acrylic cushion-soled socks have both shown a greater shock attenuating effect than walking bare foot. 5 An increased time to peak force and decreased propulsive force when wearing wool socks compared with bare feet while walking (measured using a force plate) was observed by Blackmore et al. 14 Nevertheless, yarn type and fabric structure also have an effect on sock compression and shock absorption. 17 Terry fabrics absorbed more impact energy (using a ball drop method) than single jersey. 17 Thus, increasing sock thickness is reportedly a means to improve shock attenuating properties; however natural fibers may not possess the resilience needed to attenuate shock. 14 Full details of the sock fabrics used (structure, thickness, yarn type, and mass per unit area) by Blackmore et al.14 were not provided, thus results may reflect unknown interactions amongst several variables.
There has also been interest in the ability of socks to continue to reduce foot pressure (from repeated contact with the ground) and absorb impact after a period of use. The decrease in the cushioning effect of ‘aged’ socks indicates they may not absorb impact or cushion feet over extended periods of use, with a 31% reduction in the ability of 3 month old socks to reduce foot pressure compared with new socks. 4 The capacity of a sock to attenuate impact after a high number of footfalls (2068 ± 169) and during high energy impact conditions such as running is uncertain, as differences in actual sock performance have not been detected during running or for runs of long duration (5000 m) as measured using five participants in a laboratory setting. 14 Due to the occlusive nature of footwear and the proclivity of feet to sweat, socks may become damp during use, yet the compressive properties of damp sock fabrics are unknown. Although compressive and energy absorbing properties of socks have been investigated previously, the objective of this study was to subject dry and damp sock fabrics to repeated compression cycles in order to determine the relative effects of fiber type, yarn type and fabric structure on fabric compression and recovery from compression.
Experimental details
Materials and test conditions
Fabric variables
Acrylic density was 1.16 g/cm3; 3 denier fiber has a diameter of approximately 19.1 µm.
Half-terry: loops on every second course only.
Properties of sock fabrics (n = 5)
Fabrics were pre-treated to ensure stability in a Wascator washing machine (FOM71MP-Lab, supplier: James Heal and Co Ltd, Halifax, UK) using six laundering cycles of program 8 A and detergent A, as specified in BS EN ISO 6330:2001, and dried flat after the sixth cycle. 18 Fabrics were conditioned for 24 h prior to testing in the standard environment for conditioning and tested in accordance with EN ISO 139:2005 (i.e. 20.0 ± 2℃, 65.0 ± 4.0% RH). 19 Conditions during testing were recorded using a temperature and RH data logger (Tiny Tag, Gemini Logger Manager (GLM) Tiny Tag. Ultra Energy Engineering, Auckland, New Zealand).
Measurement of cyclic compression on fabric specimens based on well-established techniques for determining cyclic compression, using a tensile testing machine in compressive mode (e.g. Yusof
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and Gore et al.
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), and is similar to that reported by Morris et al.
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An attachment similar to a conventional ball burst but with a flat surface was fabricated for use in the present work (Figure 1). The diameter of the circular surface at the bottom of the attachment was 35.7 mm, giving a fabric contact area of 1000 mm2. The compressive attachment was mounted in the upper jaw of an Instron tensile tester (Model 4464, supplier: BioLab Limited, Auckland, New Zealand). The sock fabric specimen (70 × 70 mm, n = 5) was attached to a steel platen (70 × 70 mm) mounted in the lower jaw, technical rear side up using a single piece of double-sided adhesive (70 × 70 mm) applied to the technical face of the specimen. A 100 N load cell ± 0.5% reading accuracy was used. The tensile tester was programmed to cycle between 0 and −30 N (giving a compressive pressure of 30 kPa over the contact area of the specimen) for 50 cycles with a crosshead speed of 10 mm/min. The standing peak pressure range under feet of adult humans ranges from 8.7–138.9 kPa, varying considerably in the different plantar regions of the foot;
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therefore 30 kPa was selected as a representation of foot pressure within this range. Data were collected as force by time at a sampling rate of 100 points per second using a Powerlab (supplier: ADInstruments, Dunedin, New Zealand) and were recorded using LabChart® software.
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Compression instrument set-up.
The test sequence was repeated using damp fabric specimens. Prior to being adhered to the platform, specimens were made damp using a wetting cycle (2 kg load, 20℃, rinse gentle action (180 s), drain no action (60 s), extract slow (30 s), drain gentle action (30 s)) in a Wascator washing machine as previously reported by Laing et al. 24 Specimens were then placed immediately into re-sealable plastic bags and kept in the standard environment prior to use. Specimens remained in the bags for no more than 8 h. No effort was made to standardize the volume of water held in the specimens, as the treatment was intended to reflect actual use where the fabrics would absorb what they would (e.g. rain, immersion, sweating foot). Damp and dry specimens were tested in a fully randomized order.
Analysis
Data were pre-processed using a set of macros written in Microsoft Visual Basic® in Excel® then analyzed using SPSS®.25,26 The data baseline for each file was determined using the first 100 points. Noise was reduced using an Excel de-spike macro (any noise spikes outside the normal bandwidth range were removed using averaged adjacent points), then the sign of the force values inverted for ease of processing. The maximum force for each cycle was calculated by averaging three points at maximum. Due to the differing shapes of the curves after the unloading cycle, the zero force was found by progressively fitting a 49 point (0.5 s) regression line to the curve (13 specimens needed a 199 point (2 s) regression line in order to accurately determine the minimum). The point in time where the regression line slope equaled zero was taken as the zero force.
Data collected as time in seconds were converted into mm using test speed to determine changes in fabric thickness. All fabrics differed in initial thicknesses therefore comparing changes in absolute thickness was inappropriate. Instead, the thickness a fabric retained under the compressive force or recovered after unloading was converted to a percentage of its initial thickness. Retained and recovered fabric thicknesses are expressed as a percent of the mean initial fabric thickness (see Table 2). The retained fabric thickness at maximum compression and recovered thickness at the end of the unloading phase of each cycle were analyzed both as separate parameters and also as a ratio referred to as the compressive ratio (CR):
Compression analysis parameters (inverted data). a: Maximum; b: minimum; c: area; d: initial thickness; dr: thickness retained; dc: recovered; x: thickness compressed up to 30 N; y: thickness recovered up to 0 N.

Results and discussion
All compression properties of the sock fabrics decreased significantly with an increasing number of repeated compression cycles, regardless of moisture content, fabric structure, yarn type or fiber type.
Number of compression cycles
The largest effect on changes in compression behavior of sock fabrics was attributable to the number of compression cycles. Sock fabrics consistently exhibited the most change in thickness retained, recovered the greatest thickness and absorbed the most energy during the early compression cycles (e.g. 2–10). These changes in thickness were likely due to the deformation/re-arrangement of the fibers and/or yarns, previously observed in pile fabrics as buckling of the pile, bending, and finally compression of the bent pile into the fabric. 28 Processes involving deformation of fibers and yarns have been observed in other cyclic testing, and as observed in the current work most change occurred during the initial stages.18,20,29 For example, when a fabric is laundered multiple times, most dimensional change occurs during the first three laundering cycles 18 generally in the form of relaxation shrinkage due to re-arrangement of the loops/yarns. 30 Cyclic experiments examining stiffness of cervine leather have also identified the number of cycles to be an important factor, with the largest change in stiffness between cycles 1 and 4. 21 Although the current work only examined socks up to 50 compression cycles, it seems plausible that the number of cycles would continue to be a dominant factor if more cycles were examined. For example Blackmore et al. reported a specialist running sock had better shock attenuating effects before a run, but differences were not detected among the specialist running sock, a non-specialist running sock and bare feet after the run (5000 m), possibly due to the high number of footfalls (2068 ± 169). 14
Moisture content
Percentage of water absorbed, expressed as a percentage of dry fabric weight, and percentage of mean thickness retained of damp fabrics following compression
Fiber type
Fiber had the least effect on the compressive properties of sock fabrics. The property it most significantly affected was the compression to recovery ratio, with acrylic fabrics recovering better and retaining slightly more thickness than mid wool and fine wool fabrics (Figure 3). Acrylic socks have previously been reported as retaining thickness better than wool socks due to wool fibers absorbing water and thus compressing more easily than acrylic fibers.
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The smaller amount of water present within the acrylic fabrics allowed the damp acrylic fabrics to exhibit a pattern of response that closely resembled that of dry fabrics (Figure 4(a)). This is probably due to the acrylic fabrics containing less water than both types of wool fabrics, as mentioned previously. The current work suggests that hygroscopicity may be the most important contribution of fiber type on compressive properties of fabrics.
Thickness retained (%) of fabrics under compression by cycle. (a) Dry acrylic fabrics; (b) damp acrylic fabrics; (c) dry fine wool fabrics; (d) damp fine wool fabrics; (e) dry mid-micron wool fabrics; (f) damp mid-micron wool fabrics. Compression to recovery thickness ratio. (a) Fiber and moisture content. (b) Structure and moisture content.

Fabric structure
Principal factors affecting compression parameters (all cycles)
Differences in behavior of the fabric structure, possibly related to fabric density, were more apparent when the compression to recovery ratio was examined. Single jersey had a much lower ratio than terry and half-terry, presumably due to the terry loop structure (which creates a less dense structure than single jersey). Increased fabric thickness and density have been indicated as possible contributors to improve shock attenuating properties of socks by Howarth and Rome; 5 however the authors did not report these parameters. Fabric density is reported to improve shock attenuation by providing a framework of material to dissipate shearing forces, possibly enhancing the properties of the fibers, particularly acrylic. 5 Thus, the current work suggests that the inherent properties of different fabric structures (e.g. density and thickness) are possibly more important than the geometric arrangement of yarns within the fabric structure for repeated compressions of up to 50 cycles.
Yarn structure
Yarn structure appears to have little effect on the compression properties of sock fabrics. The small differences that were detected among fabrics constructed from differing yarns indicated that fabrics composed of single ply yarn retained a higher percentage of their original thickness during compression and recovery than fabrics composed of plied yarns. This is possibly related to fabric density, as fabrics composed of single yarns were thinner but had a higher mass per unit area than fabrics composed of plied yarns. Any appreciable influence that yarn type has on the compressive properties of sock fabrics appears to be linked to the yarn role in shaping the fabric structure, and thus the influence of this on thickness and density, both of which have been identified by Howarth and Rome as influencing compressive properties. 5
Conclusions
The carefully controlled manufacture of sock fabrics allowed the relative effects of sock components on compression properties to be analyzed. Although the number of compression cycles in the current work (50) was much lower than that to which a typical sock would be subjected during wear, this was sufficient to identify relative differences in patterns of response to cyclic loading (after stabilization, with most changes in thickness occurring within the first 10 cycles). The most important factor was whether the fabrics were dry or damp, as damp fabrics absorbed less energy, retained less thickness during compression and recovered less than dry fabrics, much of which was influenced by fiber hygroscopicity. Fabric structure was less important, as the compressive properties of a fabric were influenced mostly by initial thickness, and to a lesser extent, fabric density, both of which are inherently controlled by the fabric structure. When energy absorbed was standardized relative to initial thickness, only the number of cycles and whether a fabric was dry or damp were significant factors. Since most of the parameters investigated can be managed by the sock manufacturer or specified by those involved in the design of socks, clarification of the relative effects of fiber, yarn and fabric structure on compressive behavior of socks is useful in order to produce socks with desirable characteristics.
Footnotes
Acknowledgments
Dr Stewart Collie of AgResearch is gratefully acknowledged for providing experimental fabrics. The Todhunter/Carpenter/Home Science Alumnae Scholarship fund, the University of Otago Christchurch Earthquake Extension fund, and the University of Otago Department of Applied Sciences are acknowledged for providing tuition fees and/or living stipend.
Funding
This research received no specific grant from any funding agency in the public, commercial, or not-for-profit sectors.
