Abstract
This paper presents a theoretical bending model to investigate the quasi-three-point bending step of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY). The effect of the friction and extensibility of fabrics on the bending step of the CHES-FY is discussed based on the theoretical bending model in three cases, and bending parameters, including maximum bending force, linear fitting slope and bending work, are featured from the bending force–displacement curves of each case. Comparisons of the theoretical and experimental results were also conducted to validate the model. The results revealed that the friction effect tended to enhance the bending parameters of the bending force–displacement curve of the bending step, and the effect of the friction could be remarkable at low bending rigidity of samples. However, the effect of the extensibility of samples was almost negligible for the bending test of wear fabrics, as the maximal relative error was less than 11.7% for fabrics where the tensile elastic constant was higher than 0.1 N/cm·%. This work can also provide a theoretical guidance for improving the measurement accuracy of the three-point bending test.
Keywords
The measurement of the bending property of fabrics can be used to predict the handle, comfort and aesthetic characteristics, as well as the application of a fabric, and it has received considerable attention from researchers. A classic characterization of the bending property is the bending rigidity, from a cantilever method first proposed by Peirce. 1 Subsequently, a series of development of the measurement methods for the bending property of fabrics was reported.2–6 Kocil et al. 7 employed an Instron tensile apparatus to measure the critical maximum buckling force of a fabric to characterize bending rigidity. Sun 8 developed a new tester measuring the bending length of a cross-shaped specimen to assess the fabric bending stiffness in both warp and weft directions in one test. Ghane and Hedayati 9 used a fixed-support beam method to calculate the bending rigidity of fabrics based on the slope of a fitted line. In addition, two popular bending testers, the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) bending tester and the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) bending meter, have also been reported.10,11 They were widely used to test the bending property of fabrics under the low stress state. However, the instruments mentioned above were developed to test only one property in one test. It is difficult for these apparatuses to meet the actual application where the fabrics deformed under multiple mechanical actions simultaneously covering bending, friction, stretching and compression properties, as the comprehensive behavior of the fabric was not the simple linear summary of those mechanical properties.
Other attempts have shown effective methods using simultaneous measurement to evaluate the mechanical behaviors of the fabric under complex mechanical action.12–16 The best known of these methods includes the ring test, and a commercial instrument, that is the PhabrOmeter Fabric Evaluation System, has been developed by Pan. 17 This system featured the handle index by pulling a circle fabric sample through a circle orifice to measure the comprehensive property of fabrics. It successfully measured the comprehensive handle index by the membrane theory and effectively featured multiple mechanical properties by the statistical algorithm. 18
Recently, the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) was developed. The CHES-FY was designed based on a pulling-out test whereby the weight, bending, friction and tensile/shear properties for both fabrics and yarns can be measured simultaneously, 19 and the fabric handle can also be assessed using the pulling-out force–displacement curve. 20 The testing process and apparatus parameters of the CHES-FY were discussed based upon experimental and theoretical analysis,21,22 and the factors in the testing of the weighting and stretching steps have been investigated in previous work.23,24 For the bending step, it approximates to a three-point bending test that has become an attractive approach to evaluating the bending property of various materials.25–27 Some corresponding bending models were developed by analyzing the three-point bending process to calculate the bending rigidity in terms of the deflection of the measured materials.28–30 However, less work has been found focusing on the investigation into the effect of friction and extensibility of measured samples on the three-point bending test. For flexible elastic materials, such as fabrics and yarns, and the bending test under the low stress state, the effect of the friction between samples and the three restraint points, as well as the extension of samples during the test, become relatively large with respect to the bending force. In a previous bending model of the CHES-FY, the friction and extension of samples were ignored, which in some cases may disturb the test results for characterizing the bending property.
Therefore, this paper aimed to develop a theoretical bending model based on the quasi-three-point bending process of the CHES-FY by including the friction and extension factors so that the influencing degree of the friction and extensibility on the results of the bending process could be analyzed mathematically.
Modeling analysis
In order to analyze the bending process, it is necessary to give a brief description of the CHES-FY. The basic structure of the CHES-FY is schematically illustrated in Figure 1. It is composed of a pulling pin, bi-U-shaped pins, a pair of jaws, a sensor recording the pulling-out force and a digital camera capturing the sample profile.
Schematic structure of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY).
The pulling pin can move up and down with the control of a micro-step motor to pull a sample through the interval of the bi-U-shaped pins. When a sample undergoes complex morphological deformation, the pulling-out force is simultaneously recorded by the sensor connected with the pulling pin. By analyzing the geometry morphology of the deformed fabric, multiple physical and mechanical properties of the sample can be calculated in a pulling-out test. The testing process and the corresponding pulling-out force–displacement curve are shown in Figure 2(a) and (b), where it can be seen that the whole testing process can be divided into four steps, that is, the weighting, bending, friction and stretching steps. They can be used to characterize the weight, bending, friction and tensile properties of the fabric, respectively. In this work, the bending step, which starts at G0 when the sample is lifted up by the pulling pin to just touch the bi-U-shaped pins and ends at the maximum bending force (MBF; see Figure 2(c)), is investigated and discussed.
The pulling-out process (a), the corresponding pulling-out force—displacement curve (b) and the bending step (c) of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY).
When a sample bends under the interaction of the pulling pin and bi-U-shaped pins, there exists friction between the sample and the bi-U-shaped pins as well as the pulling pin. As a result, the sample may also generate a possible extension due to the friction and pulling-out force during the bending step. Before conducting the theoretical analysis of the bending step, the following assumptions are made based on the bending process of the CHES-FY, and the main parameters used in the theoretical derivation are listed in Table 1.
The sample is assumed to be symmetric with respect to the midline G0G1 (see Figure 2) under the bending action of the pulling pin and bi-U-shaped pins. Therefore, only the right-hand and part, that is, section G1O of the entire sample is analyzed for modeling, and it can be divided into four segments, that is, two contact segments G1D and CA and two noncontact segments DC and AO. The points D, C and A are the demarcation points between the contact segment and the noncontact segment. The sample between the bi-U-shaped pins is assumed as a horizontal line at the beginning of the bending step, and the section DC of the sample is approximately symmetric about the middle point S of the noncontact segment DC during the whole bending process (see Figure 2(c)). Therefore, the bending moment at point S is assumed to be zero. This assumption is based on the observation of a preliminary test, as shown in Figure 3, where the basic parameters of the CHES-FY are optimized for bending modeling. The samples are assumed to be homogeneous flexible materials with a finite bending stiffness, and thus the effect of the interweaving structure is ignored in this work. The material property of samples is assumed to be linearly elastic, and the extension of the samples in the entire noncontact segment is assumed to be uniform. The effect of the weight, compressibility and Poisson’s ratio of samples is negligible during the bending process. Throughout the bending process, the samples are assumed to be in an equilibrium state, as the pulling-out speed of the pulling pin is very small. The jaws of the CHES-FY consist of a rotational pedestal, and thus the bending moment at point O is small and can be negligible. Definition of parameters The sample shape of the quasi-three-point bending process at different pulling-out displacements h.

Based on the above assumptions, the theoretical model for quasi-three-point bending can be derived by combining the equivalence of the sample length from mechanical analysis and its original length hanging between the two jaws.
Mathematical derivation
Analysis of the sample noncontact segment with the pin
Referring to the first and the second assumptions, the sections DS and AO of the noncontact segments are segregated for calculation. The bending moment at points S and O, according to the second and sixth assumptions, is zero. Therefore, the deformed configuration and force and moment equilibrium, as well as an infinitesimal element dl of the sample in the noncontact segment, are shown in Figure 4 with the extension of the sample increasing from the original length The configuration (a) and an infinitesimal element (b) of the extended sample in force and moment equilibrium in the noncontact segment.
As seen in Figure 4, the resultant force, F, acting on the sample has an inclined angle ω to the initial axis of the sample due to the complex actions of the shear force and bending moment,
31
and it can be decomposed into two components that are along the x-axis and y-axis, respectively. Assuming the coordinate of the endpoint as (X,Y) and using the moment equilibrium at point P, the following equation is obtained
Differentiating equation (1) with respect to dl and substituting equation (2) into equation (1) gives
From Figure 4 and the second assumption, the following boundary conditions are given
Integrating equation (3) with respect to γ and submitting the boundary conditions yields
Introducing two new variables which meet
Equation (6) is simplified as
The boundary conditions are transformed as follows
It should be pointed out that the value of ω is generally greater than that of ϕ. Integrating equation (8) based on the transformed boundary conditions and submitting equation (4), we get
Taking the limits of
It can be proved that equation (12) is also applicable to the sample contact segment with the pin. Referring to the third assumption and based on equation (12), the elongation,
Thus, the primary task of analyzing the extension in the noncontact segment is to determine the value of the parameter τ connecting the endpoint strain,
Bearing in mind that segment DC is symmetrical about point S, the length LDC of the sample with extension in the noncontact segment DC can be obtained from equation (10) as
The elongation of the noncontact segment DC can also be obtained from equations (10) and (13) as
Similarly, the length of the sample in the noncontact segment AO can be acquired in equation (16)
and the elongation of segment AO is expressed as
Calculation of the resultant force and angle parameter
For facilitating the analysis, a Cartesian coordinate system whose original point is located at the starting point G0 is established. Based on the force and moment analysis in Figure 4 and the force and moment equilibrium, the reactive forces F1 and F2, as well as the moments M1 and M2, are shown in Figure 5.
Force and moment analysis at the demarcation points of the contact segment and the noncontact segment.
The resultant force, F1, at point D can be divided into two component forces, that is, F1
x
along the x-axis direction and F1
y
along the y-axis direction, which are expressed as
Using equation (20), the angle
Then, the forces TC and QC at point C are also obtained from the force equilibrium and symmetry. Once the forces TA and QA at point A are figured out, the angle
Therefore, the calculation of F2 and
Analysis of the sample contact segment with the pin
The force and moment equilibrium of an infinitesimal element and how it extends from dl′ to dl are shown in Figure 6.
Force and moment analysis of an infinitesimal element of the extended sample in the contact segment.
Referring to the fifth assumption, the equilibrium relationship at the n and t directions can be expressed as follows
32
The elongation of the sample in the contact segment, together with equation (12), can be given by
Based on the third assumption,
Note that the wrap angle is always measured from the active force, that is, the force at points D and C, to the passive force, that is, the force at points G1 and A. Referring to Figure 5, the boundary conditions of the contact segments can be given by
Employing the fourth-order Runge–Kutta method and using the above boundary conditions, equations (30) and (31) can be solved numerically. When the solutions of
Thus, the forces acting at point A can be obtained from equation (33) as
Based on equation (33) and referring to Figure 5, the elongation
Of course, the lengths of the sample contact segments with extension can be acquired based on the wrapping angles
Determination of the total length of the sample
Bearing in mind that the sample original gage length between the two jaws is set as L0 in the test, it can be calculated by combining the length and extension of the sample in both contact and noncontact segments and expressed in the following equation
Substituting equations (14)–(17) and (37)–(40) into equation (41), it is modified as
Based on the above equations, the pulling force–displacement curve can be simulated using the given fabric property parameters and the values of the deflection angle ϕ and the wrap angle θ from the image of a digital camera. In addition, the bending rigidity can also be calculated in reverse by using the experimental pulling force and corresponding displacement.
Experimental details
Materials and design
The primary specifications and property parameters of the fabric samples
The thickness of fabrics was determined under pressure of 1 kPa according to the ISO standard 5084-1996. The bending rigidity, friction coefficient and tensile elastic constant of the samples were determined by the KES bending tester, surface tester and tensile/shear tester, respectively, where the tensile elastic constant is the ratio of the tensile force acting on the unit width of the sample to strain. The property parameters were used in the model to simulate the the oretical pulling force–displacement curves. Meanwhile, a quasi-three-point bending test was conducted using the CHES-FY to obtain the experimental pulling force–displacement curves. It should be pointed out that the property parameters were measured in the warp direction of samples by the KES, and the samples were also tested in the warp direction using the CHES-FY.
Before the testing, the basic parameters of the CHES-FY should be set as follows: the diameters of the pulling pin and bi-U-shaped pins were 4 mm; the distances from the curvature centers of the bi-U-shaped pins to the jaws were 40 mm in the horizontal direction and 50 mm in the vertical direction, respectively; the interval distance of the bi-U-shaped pins was set as 14 mm; the moving speed of the pulling pin was 0.2 mm/s; the sampling frequencies of the analog-to-digital convertor and the digital camera were set as 100 and 10 Hz, respectively. The fabrics were cut into strip samples with warp × weft size as 20 cm × 2 cm and stored in a conditioned lab at 20 ± 2℃ and 65 ± 3% relative humidity for over 24 h prior to testing on the CHES-FY. The gage length of the samples between the two jaws was 18 cm at the beginning of the test.
Estimation of the parameters for modeling
Wrap angle θ
To reduce the actual analysis of the image captured by the digital camera of the CHES-FY and facilitate the discussion of the theoretical modeling, it is necessary to investigate the underlying regularities of the dynamic wrap angles based on the experimental observations. Figure 7 shows the evolution of the wrap angles of the four kinds of fabric samples with the displacement of the pulling pin.
Wrap angles at different displacements of the pulling pin with a fitting trend.
It can be seen that both angles
Equations (43) and (44) show the primary trend of the wrap angles with the evolution of displacement. At the beginning part,
Endpoint deflection angle ϕ
To obtain the deflection angle ϕ at point S, the sample image was captured by the digital camera of the CHES-FY during the test process and processed by the high-pass filter method to highlight the profile of the sample, as shown in Figure 8.
The typical sample image of segment DC after the high pass.
Based on the Cartesian coordinate system with the origin point G0, we can obtain the cubic spline curve s(x) of the sample profile by the interpolation algorithm using the MATLAB program. The angle ϕ can be obtained by equation (45)
Assuming the deflection segment of the sample approximates to a circle arc and referring to the geometrical relationship in Figure 8, the deflection angle ϕ can also be described by
Bearing in mind that the coordinates of points D, S and O2 are (
Comparisons of the endpoint deflection angle between estimated values and experimental values
Results and discussion
In order to analyze the effect of the friction and extensibility, the theoretical curves of the four samples were calculated by substituting the corresponding property parameters and the apparatus setting parameters given in the experiment part into equation (42), and three main cases, that is, case 1: with both friction and extensibility effects ( Comparison between theoretical and experimental curves of samples 1 (a), 2 (b), 3 (c) and 4 (d).
Comparisons of bending parameters of the theoretical and experimental curves
The value in the bracket is the absolute relative error (unit: %) between the theoretical value and corresponding experimental value.
MBF: maximum bending force.
Comparison of the theoretical and experimental results
As shown in Figure 9, the theoretical curves from the theoretical bending model including friction and extensibility effects show a reasonable agreement with the experimental curves, although the first half of the theoretical curves is visibly lower than the experimental curves. This difference may result from the ideal assumption of samples as homogeneous flexible materials, ignoring the structure of the samples, but the fabric as a fuzzy interwoven material can generate structural adjustment and compression between yarns and between testing pins and the fuzzy surface of samples, especially at the beginning of the bending test. However, both the experimental and theoretical curves present the same variation trend of the pulling-out force with the displacement, and the latter half of the theoretical curves fit well with the experiment. This means that the theoretical bending model can be used to predict the experimental force–displacement curve of the bending step. Referring to Table 4, the maximal relative error of the bending parameters between the theoretical and experimental curve is less than 15.7% (i.e. (0.210–0.177)/0.210), which further reveals that the theoretical bending model is reliable and has included the major factors that act on the bending step of the CHES-FY. Moreover, the model can enable the bending rigidity of fabric samples to be reliably evaluated by eliminating the effects of friction and extensibility of samples using the pulling-out force and corresponding displacement measured by the CHES-FY and friction coefficient and tensile elastic constant of the samples.
Effect of the friction
As can be seen from Figure 9 and Table 4, the pulling-out force–displacement curves show high sensibility to the friction effect. The bending parameters, that is, MBF, linear fitting slope and bending work, from the theoretical curves significantly increase when considering the friction effect. The minimal variation rate of the bending parameters of the theoretical curves from case 2 (with the friction effect) to case 3 (no friction effect) are 19.1%, 19.2% and 18.4%, respectively, and the variation rate of the MBF of sample 1 is even up to 48.7%. This result shows that the friction effect is remarkable in the bending test for fabrics where the friction coefficient range is 0.210–0.283. Moreover, a tendency can be found by comparing the force–displacement curves of the four samples, that is, the friction effect becomes more outstanding when the bending rigidity decreases. This is a natural conclusion, but it indicates the importance of considering the effect of friction on the quasi-three-point bending test when measuring the fabric-similar flexible materials.
In order to analyze further the effect of friction on the force–displacement curve, the theoretical curves at four values of (0, 0.2, 0.3 and 0.5) are computed by combining equation (42) with equations (44), (47) and (48), where B is set as 0.7 mN·cm, and Ec is set as 0.5 N/cm·% in the formula. It is interesting to note from Figure 10 that the bending parameters increase significantly when μ changes from 0 to 0.2, while the increase of the bending parameters is not remarkable, expectedly, when μ shifts from 0.2 to 0.3 and 0.5. Thus, including the friction effect in the model formula is of great importance, but the bending parameters may not be sensitive to the change of the friction coefficient μ.
Theoretical force–displacement curves with different friction effects.
Effect of the extensibility
The extensibility of the sample always reduces the bending parameters of force–displacement curves, as shown in Figure 9. However, the variation rate of the bending parameters from case 2 (no extensibility effect) to case 1 (with extensibility effect) is not dominant for fabrics whose tensile elastic constant ranges from 0.41 to 0.90 N/cm·%, and the maximal variation rate of bending parameters is not more that 5.88% (i.e. (1.19–1.12)/1.19). Figure 9 also shows that only the theoretical curves with the friction effect can fit the experimental curves well, which indicates that the extensibility of samples is not a major factor affecting the bending test.
Considering these results, we simulate an extra force–displacement curve of a sample with a relatively low tensile elastic constant (Ec = 0.1 N/cm·%) and compare it with the other curves where B is set as 0.7 mN·cm and μ is set as 0.3, as shown in Figure 11. It is shown that the bending parameters increase with the increase of the tensile elastic constant, Ec, from 0.1 to a maximum value (i.e. no extensibility effect). However, the variation rate of the bending parameters is still relatively small; even the tensile elastic constant is at a low value and the variation rate of the bending parameters is not more than 11.7% between the curve with no extension and the curve with a low tensile elastic constant (Ec = 0.1 N/cm·%). Therefore, the effect of the extensibility is almost negligible for the bending test of wear fabrics with maintaining the relative error at less than 11.7% when the tensile elastic constant of the fabric is larger than 0.1 N/cm·%.
Theoretical force–displacement curves with different extensibility effects.
Conclusions
This paper developed a theoretical bending model to investigate the quasi-three-point bending step of the CHES-FY. Good agreements were obtained between the theoretical and experimental curves, confirming the rationality of the established model, and it also indicates that the theoretical bending model has included the major factors affecting the bending step of the CHES-FY. The model considered, in detail, the effect of the friction and extensibility on the bending test, based on the simulated curves in three cases. The results show that it is of great importance to consider the friction effect, and the friction effect can enhance the bending parameters of the force–displacement curve significantly with the variation rate of the bending parameters, while this effect could be reduced if the bending rigidity of measured samples becomes large. However, the effect of the extensibility of samples on the bending test is negligible, as the variation rate of the bending parameters of the curves is not more than 5.88% for the tested samples when considering the extensibility effect, and the relative error can be limited within 11.7% when the tensile elastic constant is not lower than 0.1 N/cm·%. Therefore, the effect of the extensibility of the wear fabrics on the bending test can be ignored in general. The work also has an application for predicting the bending rigidity using the pulling-out force by the displacement in the measurement of the CHES-FY.
Footnotes
Acknowledgement
The authors would like to thank Dr Del Giudice Michelina (CSIRO Material Science and Engineering, Waurn Ponds, Australia) for her help in the KES test.
Declaration of conflicting interests
The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The authors disclosed receipt of the following financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article: This work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundations of China project (grant numbers 11272086 and 51203022), the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (CUSF-DH-D-2016006 and 2232014A3-02) the “DHU Distinguished Young Professor Program (B201307)” and the Fok Ying Tung (huoyingdong) Education Foundation (151071). The authors are grateful to the China Scholarship Council (CSC) for the scholarship (number 201506630046) provided to one of the authors (Sun).
