Abstract
In this study, acrylamide-containing crosslinking agents 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS1) and 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS2) were synthesized and applied to cotton fabric as durable press finishing agents under alkaline conditions. The target products were characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and proton nuclear magnetic resonance. The stability of the acrylamide group in alkaline solution was investigated by model compound para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid. The efficiency of AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 as durable press finishing agents was examined and compared by testing the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA), tearing strength retention (TSR) and washing durability under different conditions using the steaming process. The performance of fabric treated with 1,3,5-triacroylaminohexahydro-s-triazine (FAP) was also investigated and compared with those treated with acrylamide-containing crosslinking agents. The results showed that the anti-crease effects of FAP were better than those of the new synthesized agents. However, the new synthesized agents have the advantage of water solubility and low cost. The fabric treated with new synthesized agents presented satisfactory WRA and TSR, indicating that AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 can be utilized as effective alkaline crosslinking agents. In addition, the different performance of the FAP-treated fabric and fabric treated with the new synthesized agents was illustrated by the HPLC method.
Keywords
Cotton fabric is an essential apparel material because of its excellent properties, such as air permeability, sweat absorption and being comfortable to wear. Unfortunately, cotton fabric wrinkles easily during wearing and home laundering.1–3 To produce wrinkle-free cotton fabrics, crosslinking agents, which can form a crosslinkage among cellulosic chains, are usually utilized.
There are mainly two types of crosslinking agents in the area of textiles: formaldehyde-based agents and formaldehyde-free agents. For the former, formaldehyde-based N-methylol reagents are the most general anti-crease finishing agents, such as dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and its modified versions of “low-formaldehyde”. 2 Formaldehyde-based N-methylol reagents can react with the hydroxyl of celluloses to create a covalent crosslink under acidic condition. However, cotton fabric treated with these agents can release formaldehyde during the finishing process and wearing.4,5 The releasing formaldehyde is a skin irritant and has a bad odor, which has an adverse impact on human health and the environment.6–10
Hence, extensive efforts have been made to develop formaldehyde-free crosslinking agents,8,11–19 where polycarboxylic acids, such as tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA), citric acid and maleic acid, are recognized as the most promising alternatives.20–24
However, another critical issue is associated with the above two types of crosslinking agents, in that severe tensile strength loss may take place due to depolymerization of cellulose macromolecules in the acid condition or the catalyst.25–27 For example, the Lewis acid catalyst, such as magnesium chloride, is indispensable for employment of the traditional N-methylol reagents at curing temperatures as high as 160℃. Polycarboxylic acid is much more acidic. The curing temperature is higher (170–180℃), resulting in more severe degradation of cellulose and much lower tensile strength of cotton fabric than for formaldehyde-based agents. 28
To reduce the mechanical strength loss of cotton fabric treated with a durable press finishing agent, FAP, whose chemical name is 1,3,5-triacroylaminohexahydro-s-triazine (Figure 1), has been used as a durable press finishing agent under alkaline condition, but its disadvantage of low solubility in cold water has restricted its general application.
11
Inspired by the structure of FAP, we attempted to develop novel durable press finishing agents containing the sulfonic acid group(-SO3H), with the aim to increase its solubility in water and the acrylamide group, which can react with the hydroxyl group of cellulose.
29
Structure of 1,3,5-triacroylaminohexahydro-s-triazine (FAP).
In this paper, two acrylamide-containing crosslinking agents that can be utilized in alkaline conditions were successfully synthesized, 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS1) and 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS2) (shown in Figure 2), whose chemical structures were characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and proton nuclear magnetic resonance (1HNMR). More importantly, their application as crosslinking agents for cotton fabric has been investigated and the performance was compared with that of FAP. Also, we synthesized model compound para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-PABS) (in Figure 2) to investigate the stability of the acrylamide group in different alkaline conditions, as well as to illustrate the various performances of the two acrylamide crosslinking agents and FAP.
Synthesis route. DABS1: 2,4-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid; DABS2: 2,5-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid; PABS: p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS1: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS2: acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-PABS: acrylamide-containing para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid.
Experimental details
Materials and chemicals
Woven cotton fabric, which was desized, scoured, bleached and whitened by a fluorescent brightening agent, was used throughout this work. The wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) and whiteness index (WI) of the untreated fabric were 153° and 121.6, respectively.
FAP was purchased from TCI Development Co., Ltd (Tokyo, Japan). p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid (PABS), acryloyl chloride (AC), tetrabutylammonium bromide (TBAB), 2,4-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid (DABS1) and 2,5-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid (DABS2) were purchased from Energy Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd. Sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, sodium chloride, anhydrous diethyl ether, hydrochloric acid and sodium dihydrogen phosphate were laboratory-grade chemicals.
Synthesis
Synthesis of AC-DABS1
The synthesis route of AC-DABS1 is shown in Figure 2(a). A solution of AC (0.25 mol, 20.3 mL) in ether (50 mL) was slowly added dropwise to the well stirred aqueous solution of the sodium salt of 2,4-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid (0.1 mol), which was cooled to 0–5℃. The pH of the reacting mixture was maintained between 3 and 5 by adding sodium carbonate solution. After the addition of AC, the solution was acidified with concentrated HCl. Then sodium chloride was added to salt out the product. After filtering and drying, the pure product was collected with 80% yield.
HPLC: water/acetonitrile (V/V) was 60:40. There was a new peak at retention time 7.4 min that ascribed to the product.
1HNMR (400 MHz, D2O): δ (ppm) 8.15 (s, 1H, ArH), 7.69 (s, 1H, ArH), 7.31 (s, 1H, ArH), 6.25 (m, 4H, =CH2), 5.78 (m, 1H, -CH=).
Synthesis of AC-DABS2
The procedure of synthesis AC-DABS2 was the same as for AC-DABS1, except DABS2 was used (shown in Figure 2(b)). The yield of AC-DABS2 is 78%. Under the same HPLC analysis condition, the retention time of AC-DABS2 is 7.1 min.
1HNMR (400 MHz, D2O): δ (ppm) 8.42 (s, 1H, ArH), 7.67 (d, 1H, ArH), 7.30 (dd, 1H, ArH), 6.37 (m, 2H, =CH2), 6.24 (d, 2H, =CH2), 6.20 (d, 1H, -CH=), 5.86 (dd, 1H, -CH=).
Synthesis of AC-PABS
A total of 34.6 g of PABS (0.2 mol) was dissolved in water (100 mL) containing 4.0 g of sodium hydroxide. The solution was cooled to 0–5℃ and 20 mL of AC dissolved in ethylether (50 mL) was added dropwise. Sodium carbonate solution was added to maintain the reaction mixture at a pH of 3–5. After finishing the adding, concentrated HCl was added to acidify the solution. Then, sodium chloride was added to salt out the product. After filtering and drying, pure product was collected with 65% yield.
HPLC: water/acetonitrile (V/V) was 75:25. Retention time was 8.37 min.
1HNMR (400 MHz, D2O): δ (ppm), 7.54 (dt, 4H, ArH), 6.24 (m, 2H, =CH2), 5.72 (d, 1H, -CH=).
Durable press finishing of cotton fabric
AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 finishing: the treating solution was prepared by mixing AC-DABS1 or AC-DABS2 with sodium carbonate to a specified concentration. Cotton fabric was immersed in the finishing solution using the two dips and two nips method and then dried at 80℃ for 3 min throughout the finishing treatment.
FAP finishing: FAP was mixed with water at 70℃ with stirring, while diluted ammonia solution (the mole ratio of FAP to NH3 was 4:1) was added quickly. Stirring was continued until a clear solution was formed. Cotton fabric was padded with the solution by two dips and two nips, where the nip pressure was set to give a pickup of 100%. Then the cotton was dried at 80℃ for 3 min and then steamed at a specified temperature and moisture content for a specified time.
Characterization and measurement
HPLC
HPLC analysis was performed on an Agilent 1200 system equipped with a column (SUPELCOSIL LC-18, 25 cm × 4.6 mm, 5 µm) and an ultraviolet (UV) variable wavelength detector (VWD). HPLC analysis was operated with a mobile phase water/acetonitrile (v/v) at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, wavelength of 254 nm and column temperature of 30℃. The water phase was a mixture of TBAB and dihydrogen phosphate solution.
1HNMR
1HNMR spectra were recorded at 298 K on a Bruker ARX 400 spectrometer (at 400.13 MHz) and chemical shifts were internally referenced to Me4Si (0 ppm).
Measurements of WRA, tearing strength retention and WI
Samples were conditioned for at least 4 h at 65 ± 2% relative humidity and 20 ± 1℃. The WRA was tested according to AATCC Testing Method 66-2003 on an SDL Atlas M003A tester. Tearing strength was measured according to the ASTM D1424-2009 standard by a Thwing-Albert-Elmendorf tearing machine and tearing strength retention (TSR%) was calculated using the untreated sample as a control, as shown in Equation (1). All measurements of tearing strength were carried out in the weft direction
The WI was determined according to AATCC Testing Method 11-2005 using a Datacolor 650 Bench-Top Spectrophotometer. Standard washing was tested as per the AATCC Test Method 124-2001. All measurements were tested after one washing circle. Durable press (DP) rating was tested as per the AATCC Test Method 124-1996.
Investigating the stability of the acrylamide group in the alkaline condition
In sodium bicarbonate solution: 1.14 g of AC-PABS and 2.0 g of sodium bicarbonate were dissolved in 50 mL water and the reaction mixture was set at 80℃.
In sodium carbonate solution: 1.14 g of AC-PABS and 2.0 g of sodium carbonate were dissolved in 50 mL water and the reaction mixture was set at 80℃.
In sodium hydroxide solution: 1.14 g of AC-PABS was dissolved in 50 mL water. After increasing the temperature to 80℃, 1.2 g of sodium hydroxide was added.
The content of AC-PABS in the alkaline condition was calculated as per Equation (2)
Investigating the reactivity of the acrylamide group with cellulose
After impregnating into a solution of AC-PABS and sodium carbonate, two pieces of cotton fabric were dried at 80℃ for 3 min. Then, one piece of the cotton fabric was treated in steaming conditions at different temperatures for a specific time.
Both pieces of cotton fabric were analyzed by HPLC (water/acetonitrile (75/25), 254 nm, 30℃, 1 mL/min) and the content of AC-PABS grafted onto cotton treated by the steaming process can be obtained by Equation (3)
Results and discussion
Stability of the acrylamide group in the alkaline condition
In order to develop crosslinking agents suitable for the alkaline condition with a similar structure to FAP, our first task is to investigate the stability of the acrylamide group in the alkaline condition. Therefore, we synthesized model compound AC-PABS. Figure 3 shows the changing content of AC-PABS in different alkaline solutions. It was clear that AC-PABS was very stable in sodium bicarbonate solution and the content of AC-PABS decreased at different levels in sodium carbonate solution and sodium hydroxide solution, which could be ascribed to the different alkalinity of sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide.
Acrylamide-containing para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-PABS) content under different alkaline conditions.
HPLC analysis of AC-PABS under the alkaline condition revealed that AC-PABS (retention time 8.37 min) was hydrolyzed to PABS (retention time 5.66 min) and compound AC-PABSOH (retention time 5.31 min, the structure is shown in Figure 10). In Figure 4, the changing percentage of AC-PABS, PABS and AC-PABSOH in alkaline solution is shown. It is clear that the concentration change of compounds in sodium hydroxide solution is more drastic than in sodium carbonate solution and the rate of generating compound AC-PABSOH is faster than making PABS in both sodium hydroxide and sodium carbonate media.
Variation of acrylamide-containing para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-PABS), p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid (PABS) and compound AC-PABSOH concentration in sodium carbonate (a) and sodium hydroxide (b) in the hydrolysis process.
Based on the analysis above, to avoid hydrolyzing of the acrylamide group, we choose sodium carbonate as the alkaline in our study.
Efficiency of durable press finishing by the steaming and curing process
Comparison of the steaming process with the curing process
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
It can be seen from Table 1 that the WRA, TSR and whiteness of fabric treated with the steaming process was better than that of the curing process. In addition to the good performance of the cotton fabric, the steaming process is an energy-efficient process. So, we choose steaming process as the research object.
Factors influencing the performance of cotton fabric treated with AC-DABS1
To investigate the utilization of AC-DABS1 as a durable press finishing agent for cotton fabric under the alkaline condition, we explored the factors influencing the performance of cotton fabric treated with AC-DABS1, such as AC-DABS1 concentration, sodium carbonate concentration, steaming temperature, steaming humidity and steaming time.
Effect of acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid concentration on the performance of fabric
Note: condition: 20 g/L of sodium carbonate, steaming temperature at 110℃ with 75% relative humidity for 5 min.
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Effect of sodium carbonate concentration on the performance of fabric
Note: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid 80 g/L, steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity for 5 min.
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Effect of steaming temperature on the performance of fabric
Note: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid 80 g/L, alkaline 20 g/L, steaming at specified temperature with 75% humidity for 5 min.
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Effect of steaming humidity on the performance of the fabric
Note: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid 80 g/L, sodium carbonate 20 g/L, steaming at 110℃ for 5 min.
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Effect of steaming time on the performance of the fabric
Note: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid 80 g/L, sodium carbonate 20 g/L, steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity.
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Comparison of the performance of cotton fabric treated by AC-DABS2 and AC-DABS1
Similar investigations were carried out with AC-DABS2 as the finishing agent. Here the effect of the concentration of the finishing agent, steaming temperature, steaming time and washing cycle on the WRA and TSR were compared with cotton fabric treated with AC-DABS1 (shown in Figures 5–7). It has been shown that both AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 have a similar effect on the WRA and TSR, where low TSR usually accompanies higher WRA. The performance of fabric treated with AC-DABS2 presented a higher WRA than that treated with AC-DABS1, which might be ascribed to the fact that it is easier for cellulose to react with AC-DABS2 than with AC-DABS1 due to the steric hindrance effect. What is more, we tested washing durability after nine washing cycles (Figure 8). It can be seen from Figure 8 that the WRA decreased with increasing washing cycles because the crosslinking was damaged during washing. The WRA sharply reduced after one washing cycle, which might be associated with “chemical deposition”. The washing process removed the chemicals not reacting with cotton, resulting in a sharp decrease in the WRA. The DP rating was 3.0 after one washing cycle and decreased with washing more cycles. In general, the DP rating was in the range of 3.0–2.5 with increasing numbers of washing cycles from one to nine.
Effect of crosslinking agent concentration on the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) and tearing strength retention (TSR) (20 g/L sodium carbonate, steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity for 5 min). AC-DABS1: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS2: acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid. Effect of steaming temperature on the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) and tearing strength retention (TSR) (80 g/L crosslinking agents, steaming at 75% humidity for 5 min). AC-DABS1: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS2: acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid. Effect of steaming time on the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) and tearing strength retention (TSR) (80 g/L crosslinking agents, steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity). AC-DABS1: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS2: acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid. Washing durability (80 g/L crosslinking agents, steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity). AC-DABS1: acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid; AC-DABS2: acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid.



Comparing the crosslinking efficiency of FAP and acrylamide-containing crosslinking agents for cotton fabric
Factors affecting the performance of 1,3,5-triacroylaminohexahydro-s-triazine-treated cotton fabric
WRA: wrinkle recovery angle; TSR: tearing strength retention.
Figure 9 shows the WRA of fabric treated with FAP, AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2. It was clear that FAP-treated fabric presented better WRA performance than that of AC-DABS1 or AC-DABS2.
Wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) of fabric treated with 1,3,5-triacroylaminohexahydro-s-triazine (FAP), acrylamide- containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS1) and acrylamide-containing 2,5-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS2).
To illustrate this difference, AC-PABS was used to research the reactivity of the acrylamide group with cotton fabric by the HPLC method, as described in the Investigating the reactivity of the acrylamide group with cellulose section.
In the Stability of the acrylamide group in the alkaline condition section we observed that AC-PABS was converted to PABS and AC-PABSOH (structure shown in Figure 10) in alkaline conditions. It was found that PABS and PABSOH were also observed in HPLC analysis of the cotton sample treated with AC-PABS by the steaming process. We confirmed that three reactions (reactions i, ii, iii) occurred on the AC-PABS-treated cotton (Figure 10).
Reactions occurring on acrylamide-containing para-acrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-PABS)-treated cotton during the steaming process.
Thus, the reactions that occurred on AC-DABS1-treated cotton were as shown in Figure 11. There are three types of reaction, namely a reaction with cellulose through the mechanism of nucleophilic addition (reaction R1), the hydrolysis of the carbon–carbon double bond (reaction R2) and the hydrolysis of the amido bond (reaction R3).
Reactions that occurred on acrylamide-containing 2,4-diacrylamidebenzenesulfonic acid (AC-DABS1)-treated cotton.
Grafting ratio of the acrylamide group under different conditions (unit: %)
Note: the steaming humidity was 75%.
Conclusion
In this study, we concluded that the newly synthesized compounds, AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2, are effective durable press finishing agents under the alkaline condition, and can impart satisfactory fabric WRA and high TSR. The steaming process is better than the curing process and sodium carbonate is the proper alkaline for the crosslinking agents. The optimum durable press finishing process of AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 for cotton fabric is 80 g/L, sodium carbonate above 10 g/L and steaming at 110℃ with 75% humidity for 5 min. The WRA of cotton treated with AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 is not much better than that of FAP, which can be ascribed to the fact that there are three acrylamide groups in FAP, while there are only two acrylamide groups in the two newly synthesized compounds. More importantly, AC-DABS1 and AC-DABS2 are more soluble in water and more easily synthesized, which is of vital importance to durable press finishing in the textile industry.
Footnotes
Declaration of conflicting interests
The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The authors received no financial support for the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.
