Abstract
The present study aims to elaborate whether sustainable fashion consumption is characterized by emotions or rational thinking and how religiosity influences the motive for the consumers to get involved in sustainable consumption behaviour. A mall intercept survey sampling technique was employed in a large metropolitan area of Pakistan. All scales were adapted from extant literature. It was found out that sustainable fashion is more of a utilitarian aspect of clothing than a hedonistic aspect of clothing. Moreover, religiosity has a strong moderating influence on the relationship between utilitarian and hedonistic shopping values and sustainable fashion consumption. The present study has significant implications for fashion retailers in the developing countries as they need to incorporate sustainability aspects into their production processes more so because developing countries encounter severe mismanagement or scarcity of natural resources. The present study is one of the preliminary researches to investigate sustainable fashion consumption patterns of consumers with distinct disparity between the underlying motives of consumption either catering to utilitarian functions or gratifying hedonistic purposes. Another novelty is examining the moderating impact that religiosity would have on hedonic and utilitarian shopping values towards shaping sustainable behaviour.
Keywords
Introduction
A total of 170 per cent, Yes! By the year 2040, the ‘ecological footprint’ (how much destruction human consumption patterns have on the natural resources of the world) would increase to a whopping 170 per cent (WBCSD, 2008). To make it even more disturbing is the fact that every 1 million dollar spent on clothes by consumers would approximately affect 400 hectares of grasslands and forests in the world (WBCSD, 2008). Social and environmental sustainability are at a constant threat because of the advancing fashion industry all over the world, which is deemed as one of the most polluting industries, causing serious environmental impacts like the emission of greenhouse gases, excessive water utilization, synthetic dyes and harmful wastes from the factories (Copenhagen Fashion Summit, 2012). The fashion industry lures customers into developing a throw-away fashion attitude, which eventually shortens the life cycle of a clothing piece (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009). Fashion companies have developed rapid business cycles: speedy prototyping, small consignments comprising huge assortment and proficient modes of transport and distribution (Skov, 2002). In order to indulge the customers to purchase on a frequent basis, fashion retailers constantly replenish their stock with attractive and trendy outfits (Tokatli & Kizilgun, 2009). Due to this customers are vulnerable to visiting clothing stores every three times a month in the quest of finding a variety of garments (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006). This has led to the mass production of clothing as consumption is increasing at a greater pace. At present, nearly 80 billion garments are being manufactured around the world (Deloitte, 2013). Due to this heavy mass production and consumption of garments, the environmental impacts are multiplying (Gam, 2011).
The two fundamental behavioural attitudes involved in the purchase process, which determine the general engagement levels of consumers with specific products or services, are hedonic and utilitarian values (Herabadi, Verplanken & Knippenberg, 2009). To the author’s best knowledge there has been no such enquiry as to which shopping value is more dominant in the case of sustainable fashion consumption. The theoretical association between these two shopping values and sustainable fashion consumption is still not clear, which necessitates further investigation. The reason is that sustainable fashion, an evolving phenomenon, comprises two remotely related words, not often used together. Sustainability in terms of clothes implies longevity and durability, largely utilitarian values, while fashion in the same context is affiliated with personal self-expression, predominantly a hedonistic trait.
With the passage of time and as the sense of social responsibility has prevailed in food and other relevant industries, there remains a scarcity of benefaction when this consumer behaviour is studied in the context of sustainable clothing (Hustvedt & Bernard, 2008). The setting of the present study is Pakistan, which makes an interesting case for the topic under discussion. Pakistan is the sixth largest consumer market in the world with a population in excess of 180 million people, of which more than 95 per cent of the population adhere to religion Islam (Yousaf & Huaibin, 2013). The present study aims to further consolidate the results of previous studies by extrapolating the scope to the sustainable fashion sector. Likewise, it is still ambiguous on whether religious consumers are involved in consuming clothes sustainably or not. So there exists a value attitude gap regarding which shopping value, that is, hedonic or utilitarian, leads to sustainable fashion consumption and the moderating impact that religiosity would have on hedonic and utilitarian shopping values towards shaping sustainable behaviour. Filling this gap is of extreme importance because without a clear understanding of sustainability, consumers will never come to know about the consequences of their consumption behaviour.
The current article at first discusses sustainable fashion consumption in detail. Second, two shopping values, that is, hedonic and utilitarian, alongside religiosity, have been elaborated comprehensively. Third, the methodology and analysis of the results have been furnished by making use of appropriate statistical techniques. Fourth, the results have been discussed by elaborating the practical implications. At the end of the article, conclusion and limitations of the study have been mentioned.
Literature review
Sustainable Fashion Consumption
Defining sustainability in the context of fashion is complex, as terms like ethical consumption and green consumption are used interchangeably for sustainable consumption, which makes it a more multifaceted construct (Shen, Richards & Liu, 2013). Shen et al. (2013) and Fletcher (2008) extended the definition of sustainable fashion by enunciating that sustainable fashion is fashion that can be used for a longer period of time, manufactured with the ethical limitations by making use of eco-friendly and pro-environmental materials. Both environmental and social aspects of sustainability are encapsulated in this definition of sustainability which makes it more wholesome. Therefore, sustainable fashion is profoundly related to the environmental factors, involving the production of garments in a manner which is not only eco-friendly, but also epitomizes environmental safety and the preservation of natural resources (Cervellon & Wernerfelt, 2012).
Consumer preference for perpetual changes in fashion consumption has given headway to fast fashion products, which has consequently minimized the longevity of clothes. Fast fashion is a manufacturing response to fulfil the consumer’s insistence of novelty (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006). This is largely ascribable to the massive growth of fast fashion suppliers, who have developed a throw-away fashion attitude in the minds of customers, that is, disposing of the garments that are hardly worn twice (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009). Moreover, it is ascertained that this throw-away attitude is even more common among the youth because they want to stay updated in accordance with the changing fashion trends (Birtwistle & Moore, 2007). This is where the present study holds special relevance as Pakistan is regarded as a ‘young nation’ and the median age of the country is 22, and more than 100 million people (that makes more than half of total Pakistan) are aged under 30 (Nizami, 2010), which also implies that by several means they may possibly be involved in the wasteful consumption of cloths.
Hedonic Shopping Value
In the literature, different terms are interchangeably used to elaborate hedonistic shopping values like enjoyment shopping, recreational shopping, leisure shopping and pleasurable shopping (Backstrom, 2011). Moreover, Arnold and Reynolds (2003), identified different types of hedonic shopping drives: shopping for the sake of adventure, gratification (indulgence), idea shopping (a way through which know-how is ascertained regarding emerging trends in the market), role (giving a sense of relief to the other), value (the delight of discovering discounts) and social (the means of mingling with others). Hedonism is conventionally discussed in a negative connotation by linking it with emotional aspects like instant gratification, pleasure, joy and wasteful consumption (Gabriel & Lang, 1995). Similarly, Mcneill and Moore (2015), establish that while purchasing clothes, consumers who are primarily driven by symbolic values like aspirations of embellishing their personal self-image and enhancing the perception of other people towards them are lesser likely to engage in sustainable consumption. Thus, consumers with predominantly hedonic values are least likely to engage in pro-environmental behaviour or sustainable consumption (Empacher, Gotz & Schultz, 2002).
Utilitarian Shopping Value
Consumers buy products that have utilitarian values like functionality, durability, price and physical performance (Sheth, Newman & Gross, 1991). Utilitarian consumers think before purchasing a product in terms of the careful judgemental valuation of benefits (Overby & Lee, 2006). During the purchase of clothes, consumers are looking for attributes like long-lasting life and premium quality; features like these play a very important role in cloth purchasing and they fall in the category of utilitarianism (Niinimäki, 2010).
Furthermore, Jägel, Keeling, Reppel and Gruber (2012) contrived an approach, slow fashion, which integrates utilitarian aspects of consumption like durability and endurance. This slow fashion approach is more proximate to sustainable fashion consumption. Another related concept by Bostman and Rogers (2011) is ‘collaborative consumption’ which implies sharing, exchanging and renting of goods and services. Binninger, Ourahmoune and Robert (2015) identified that consumers who have utilitarian values are involved in collaborative consumption behaviour as utilitarian consumers are inclined to base their fashion decisions on needs and avoid fast fashion (McNeill & Moore, 2015) and are more likely to indulge in collaborative consumption (Binninger et al., 2015).
Religiosity and Sustainable Fashion Consumption
Religiosity is the commitment of an individual to follow the teachings of his or her religion and depicting this commitment by his attitudes and actions (Johnson, Jang, Larson & Li, 2001). Religiosity is living your life by bestowing to the guidelines that are set by God (Weaver & Agle, 2002). Religion is the single most important cultural phenomenon that has a profound effect on the lifestyles, beliefs, principles and attitudes of the individuals living in a society, both at a personal and at a societal level (Mokhlis, 2009). Since major religious scriptures advocate the significance of sustaining a harmonious relationship with the environment (Djupe & Gwiasda, 2010), the teachings of Islam also, likewise, stress on the importance of maintaining environmental balance and committing to the judicious use of resources (Akhtar, 1996). Religiosity has an influential role to play in shaping the purchase intention towards the sustainable consumption of Muslim consumers (Shaharudin, Pani, Mansor, Elias & Sadek, 2010).
Interpersonal and Intrapersonal Religiosity
Interpersonal religiosity (behavioural) portrays religious engagement in relation to an individual or a specific group (Mokhlis, 2006). Individuals that score high on interpersonal religiosity are attached to the religion because of some peripheral inspirations, that is, public prestige, commercial perks and peer domination. Consumers who have high interpersonal religiosity are fashionable and in being fashionable they are in pursuit of quality purchase rather than quantity purchase (Wesley, LeHew & Woodside, 2006). However, on the other hand, intrapersonal religiosity (cognitive) depicts religious engagement in oneself or how much an individual adhered personally to the values and beliefs of his or her religion (Mokhlis, 2006). Thereby, a fashion business that supports the well-being of other members of the society and also the natural environment of the world will subsequently attract him more. On the basis of this the current study proposed that there will be a significant and positive association of religiosity with sustainable fashion consumption keeping in mind both its dimensions.
The fundamental religious beliefs that an individual holds play an important role in persuading consumers to purchase sustainably (Djupe & Gwiasda, 2010). Hedonic consumers are more involved in fashion consumption compelled by what other people think of them due to symbolic values attached to it, that is, lifestyle and social status (Mcneill & Moore, 2015). Such an act of conspicuous consumption at an exaggerated level is considered as ostentatious and pretentious by Islam and is discouraged (Rice, 1999). Therefore, we deduce that higher levels of religiosity would diminish the negative effect of hedonistic shopping values on sustainable fashion consumption but enhance the positive effect of utilitarian shopping values on the same. The theoretical framework of the studies is depicted in Figure 1. In hypothesis H4a and H4b, religiosity includes both intrapersonal and interpersonal religiosity.

Methodology
The product category selected for this study is the designer’s clothing. The sampling frame comprised all the potential shoppers of a major metropolitan city of Pakistan, that is, Multan (located in the south of Pakistan). The mall intercept survey technique was employed in one of the largest metropolitan areas of Pakistan. The mall intercept survey method is a reliable technique applied by marketers to collect data from people shopping in malls and is further utilized by numerous other researchers to gather responses from customers visiting shopping malls (Chaney & Gamble, 2008; Delong et al., 2004; Wu & Delong, 2006). The survey was conducted in the vicinity of the three largest shopping malls during the days of the week which attract the most number of shoppers, that is, Friday and Sunday. Respondents were intercepted, particularly those departing from stores focusing on cloths. A total of 350 shoppers were approached randomly to distribute questionnaires and 300 responses were returned to the interviewer. The overall response rate was 85.3 per cent. After eliminating 5 incomplete questionnaires, we achieved a sample size of 295 respondents.
The sustainable fashion consumption dimension was measured by adopting the measures from extant literature on sustainable consumption specifically relevant to clothing. Consequently, a seven-item scale was constructed to measure sustainable fashion consumption. The scale comprised the following items: SFC3, SFC5, SFC7 and SFC6, adapted from Balderjahn et al. (2013). Additional items, SFC1, SFC2 and SFC4, were adapted from scholarly works of Roberts and Bacon (1997) and Chan and Wong (2012). The utilitarian and hedonistic shopping values were gauged by employing the scale designed by Babin, Darden and Griffin (1994). They developed a two-dimensional scale to gauge personal shopping values comprising 11 items to measure the hedonistic shopping value and 4 items to measure the utilitarian shopping value; all 15 items were measured on a 7-point Likert scale. In order to evaluate the religiosity dimension (Worthington et al., 2003), the religious commitment inventory scale (RCI-10) was utilized because as Yousaf and Malik (2013) recommended, RCI-10 has a relatively more neutral tone and avoids the sectarian elements and Pakistan being a country where religious sects are predominant, this approach is preferable. All items were measured on a 5-point Likert scale where 1 represents strongly agree and 5 symbolizes strongly disagree.
Analysis
A sample of 295 respondents from a large metropolitan area in Punjab, Pakistan, was gathered. The sample constitutes 184 male respondents (62.4%) and 111 female respondents (37.6%). The majority of the respondents, 135 in total, were aged between 18 and 23 (45.7%), and 60 respondents were aged between 24 and 29 (20.3%). While evaluating income brackets it was revealed that 52 respondents (17.6%) have their monthly average family income below 25,000 RS (238 USD), 104 (35.3%) have a monthly average family income between 25,001 and 50,000 RS (238 USD–477 USD), 54 (18.3%) have an average monthly family income between 50,001 and 75,000 RS (477 USD–715 USD) and 42 (14.2%) have an average monthly family income between 75,001 and 100,000 RS (715 USD–954 USD). However, only 43 (14.5%) respondents reported that their average monthly family income is above 100,000 RS (954 USD).
The data were tested for reliability and validity concerns. The standardized factor loadings for all the items are presented in the Table 2. All those items which had considerably lower factor loadings, the minimum cut-off criteria of 0.50, were removed from further consideration (Kline, 2015). Items H9, H10, H11 and SFC3 were deleted for further consideration as these measurement items do not correlate strongly with the theoretical construct in the model. These items were not insufficient in representing common variance for the construct. Besides, convergent validity is also established when all measurement items have factor loadings greater than 0.50 (Steenkamp & Trip, 1991). According to Bagozzi, Yi and Nassen (1998), data possess sufficient reliability if the composite reliability measure is greater than 0.60. Hair, Ringle and Sarstedt (2011) postulated that the measurement model has convergent validity if composite reliability is greater than average shared variance and the average shared variance is greater than the threshold of 0.50. On the other hand, the criteria for discriminant validity fulfil if average shared variance is greater than 0.50. Hu and Bentler (1999) further proposed that discriminant validity is established when square root of average variance extracted (AVE) is greater than inter-item construct, as it is evident from Table 1. Discriminant validity is confirmed by making use of recommendations made by Fornell and Lacker (1981) as the square root of AVE for all the variables, represented by diagonal items in Table 2, is greater than the inter-construct correlation. The values in Table 1 manifest that data sufficiently meet the above-stipulated reliability and validity standards. In the last five columns of Table 2, the bold diagonal items represent the square root of AVE whereas the items beneath these diagonal items signify inter-factor correlations between the construct. As the table depicts, the lowest square root AVE as in case of inter-religiosity (0.714) surpasses the largest inter-construct correlation of sustainable fashion consumption (0.671).
Respondents’ Profile
The measurement model was deemed adequately fit as the ratio of chi-square to degrees of freedom was 1.995, lower than the cut-off value of 2 (Tabachnick & Fidell, 2007). Moreover, the values of fit indices of the root mean square error of approximation (RMSEA) for the model was 0.057, lower than the cut-off value of 0.06 (Hu & Bentler, 1999). The indicators of absolute and relative fit were adequate (GFI=0.869, NFI=0.881, CFI=0.938, IFI=0.929 and RFI=0.938).
Reliability and Validity Statistics for the Data
Hypothesis 1 and 2 were confirmed, and as evident in Table 3, it was found out that there is a negative statistically significant relationship between hedonistic shopping values and sustainable fashion consumption (β = −0.194, p < 0.005), while utilitarian shopping values have a positive statistically significant relationship with sustainable fashion consumption (β = 0.472, p < 0.001). The testing of hypothesis 3a and 3b as evident in Table 3 confirmed that interpersonal religiosity and intrapersonal religiosity both have positive significantly statistical relationships with sustainable fashion consumption, respectively (β = 0.181, p < 0.005 and β = 0.310, p < 0.001).
As depicted in the Table 4, a hierarchical moderation analysis was run to test the moderating effect of religiosity on the relationship between hedonistic and utilitarian shopping values and sustainable fashion consumption. There was a statistically significant direct moderation effect found as the value of R2 increased from 0.419 in the second regression equation to 0.454 in the third regression equation (F = 24.571, p < 0.01). Hypothesis 4a was partially supported, evident in Figure 2, as only interpersonal religiosity diminished the negative impact of hedonistic shopping value on sustainable fashion consumption (β = 0.576, p < 0.05), while no moderation effect was found for intrapersonal religiosity as manifested in Figure 3. Hypothesis 4b was also partially accepted as only intrapersonal religiosity enhanced the positive impact of utilitarian shopping value on sustainable fashion consumption (β = 0.649, p < 0.05), while no moderation effect was found for interpersonal religiosity on the relationship between the utilitarian shopping value and sustainable fashion consumption. Figures 4 and 5 illustrate the interaction effect of both religiosity dimensions.
Standardized Factor Loadings on Loaded Items
Regression Analysis of Shopping Values and Religiosity on Sustainable Fashion Consumption
Moderation of Religiosity on the Relationship between Hedonistic and Utilitarian Shopping Values and Sustainable Fashion Consumption
Discussion
The findings furnished by the present study offer significant theoretical contributions to the literature of sustainable fashion consumption. An important theoretical underpinning of this study is that hedonistic shopping values are negatively associated with sustainable fashion consumption. A possible justification for these results is that hedonist characteristics like fun and excitement impede a customer’s indulgence in sustainable behaviours (Francis & Davis, 2015). Further, this study determined that utilitarian shopping values are positively related to sustainable fashion consumption. These results were not surprising as utilitarian consumers have a predilection towards attributes like durability, premium quality and value for their money while making purchasing decisions (Niinimäki, 2010). Similar findings have been reported by Overby and Lee (2006). Lastly, as stipulated, higher levels of interpersonal religiosity and intrapersonal religiosity were found to have positive relationships with sustainable fashion consumption, the reason being the proximity of the sustainable fashion consumption concept to the Islamic principle of value maximization (Saeed, Ahmed, & Mukhtar, 2001).




A new theoretical direction discovered by the present study is that the negative impact of the hedonistic shopping value on sustainable fashion consumption is significantly decreased by the moderating influence of interpersonal religiosity. While intrapersonal religiosity did not cause moderation between hedonism and sustainable fashion consumption, it significantly enhanced the positive impact of utilitarianism on sustainable fashion consumption. Thus, interpersonal religiosity complements hedonistic shopping values in adopting sustainable fashion consumption while intrapersonal augments utilitarian shopping values in embracing sustainable fashion consumption. Previous studies on Muslim consumers suggested that religiosity has a significant role to play in forming purchase intentions towards sustainable consumption (Shaharudin et al., 2010). But the contrasting role of both religiosity dimensions, explored in this study, in moderating the relationship between the two shopping values and the sustainable fashion consumption is a significant contribution to the literature. Luring customers into buying sustainable clothing is a complex task but the work done by Punyatoya (2014) identified that if manufacturers succeed in creating an eco-friendly image about their products, it leads towards generating customer trust which then results in higher purchase intentions.
Conclusion
The findings of this study have two significant implications for fashion retailers. First, sustainability concerns are relevant in the fashion sector as well and more so in developing countries like Pakistan, where the creation of sustainable production processes and supply chains has not been a priority, in spite of the fact that per hectare production has remained comparatively lower and natural resources are either unmanaged or limited, like fresh water resources in Pakistan are highly under stress (Ahmed, Iftikhar, & Chaudhry, 2007). Moreover, low per capita income implies that sustainable consumption may be an economic need for the consumers, attributable not only to ecological benefits it offers but also the cost–benefits it provides to the consumers and the industry as a whole. Thus, ecological concerns alone do not motivate consumers to indulge in sustainable fashion consumption. They may be primarily driven by the cost–effectiveness of sustainable fashion, if longevity and durability factors are taken into consideration, and also because clothes pass along from one family member to another one or from the upper strata to the lower strata in a closely knitted society like Pakistan. In order to create long-term effects, fashion industry, brands and retailers need to shape their activities in altering the traditional cloth-making process from ginning, spinning, weaving, dying and printing to finally cloth manufacturing. Additionally, the role of religion cannot be overlooked. Religiosity has a very strong impact in influencing consumers’ predispositions towards sustainable fashion consumption. Consumers are more likely to perceive a fashion brand sustainable, if it is positioned on religious denominations.
Limitations
The results furnished by this study are qualified by certain limitations. The findings of this study may not be extrapolated to other settings where religion is not an instrumental cultural and social phenomenon. Therefore, future researchers should be careful in generalizing the findings of the study. Moreover, only the environmental dimension items were utilized from (Balderjahn et al., 2013) consciousness for sustainable consumption scale (CSC). Future studies can incorporate all the three dimensions of sustainability. Correspondingly (Kumar, Rahman, & Kazmi, 2015) also emphasized on the importance of including social and economic factors in textile and various other sectors while implementing sustainable marketing strategy (SMS).
Declaration of Conflicting Interests
The author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The author(s) received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Footnotes
Acknowledgements
The authors are grateful to Arindam Banik, Editor, GBR, and other referees of the journal for their extremely useful suggestions to improve the quality of the article.
