Final Report of the Amended Safety Assessment of Myristic Acid and Its Salts and Esters as Used in Cosmetics

Abstract

This report addresses the safety of the inorganic salts and esters of various fatty alcohols of myristic acid. Most of the esters are used as skin conditioning agents in many types of cosmetics in a range of concentrations. Myristate esters are readily hydrolyzed to the corresponding alcohols and acids, which are then further metabolized. Myristate salts readily dissociate in any likely cosmetic formulation. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel recognized that much of the data supporting the ingredients in this group were previously reviewed in safety assessments for related ingredients. Where specific data did not exist, the Panel considered structure—activity relationships in determining the safety of these ingredients as used in cosmetics. The Panel determined that myristic acid and its salts and esters are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the current practices of use and concentration.

Keywords

safety cosmetics myristic acid salts esters

References

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of butyl myristate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1990;9(2):247-258.

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, and stearic acid. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1987;6(3):321-401.

Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

Safety assessment of glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl diarachidate, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl dierucate, glyceryl dihydroxystearate, glyceryl diisopalmitate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl dilinoleate, glyceryl dimyristate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl diricinoleate, glyceryldipalmitate, glyceryl dipalmitoleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, and glyceryl stearate succinate. Washington, DC: Author; 2005.

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1988;7:359-413.

Cosmetic Ingredient Review

Cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Washington, DC: Author; 2006.

Andersen FA

Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments-2002/2003 . Int J Toxicol. 2005;24(S2):89-98.

Final report of the amended safety assessment of glyceryl laurate, glyceryl laurate SE, glyceryl laurate/oleate, glyceryl adipate, glyceryl alginate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl arachidonate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprylate, clyceryl caprylate/caprate, glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl collagenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl hydrogenated soyate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isopalmitate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl isostearate/myristate, glyceryl isostearates, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl montanate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl isotridecanoate/stearate/adipate, glyceryl oleate SE, glyceryl oleate/elaidate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl palmitate/stearate, glyceryl palmitoleate, glyceryl pentadecanoate, glyceryl polyacrylate, glyceryl rosinate, glyceryl sesqioleate, glyceryl/sorbitol/oleate/hydroxystearate, glyceryl stearate/acetate, glyceryl stearate/maleate, glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl thiopropionate and glyceryl undecylenate. Int J Toxicol. 2004;23(suppl 2):55-94.

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;4:5-80.

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1988;7(3):359-413.

10.

Lanigan S.

Final report on the safety assessment of methyl alcohol. Int J Toxicol. 2001;20(suppl 1):57-85.

11.

Andersen FA

Annual Review of Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Assessments-2004/2005. Int J Toxicol. 2006 ;25(S2):73-78.

12.

Elder RL

Final report on the safety assessment of Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, and Octyl Dodecanol. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1985 ;4(5):1-29.

13.

Johnson W Sr.

Final report on the safety assessment of propylene glycol (PG) dicaprylate, PG dicaprylate/dicaprate, PG dicocoate, PG dipelargonate, PG isostearate, PG laurate, PG myristate, PG oleate, PG oleate SE, PG dioleate, PG dicaprate, PG diisostearate, and PG dilaurate. Int J Toxicol. 1999;18(2):35-52.

14.

Gottschalck T.

Bailey JE

International Cosmetic Ingredient

Dictionary and Handbook 2. Washington: CTFA2008.

15.

International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook . 12th ed. Washington, DC: CTFA; 2008.

16.

Food Chemicals Codex. 3rd ed. Washington, DC: National Academy Press ; 1981.

17.

Fassett DW

Irish DD

Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology. New York, NY : Interscience Publishers; 1963 :2:(2).

18.

Windholz M

Budavari S

Blumetti RF

Otterbein ES

, eds. The Merck Index. Rahway, NJ: Merck and Co; 1983:10.

19.

Weast RC

CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press; 1982:63.

20.

Swern D

, ed. Bailey’s Industrial Oil and Fat Products. New York, NY: John Wiley; 1979:4(1).

21.

Gattefossé. Data sheet. MOD Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008.

22.

CTFA. Myristates: summary of unpublished safety data. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

23.

CTFA. CTFA cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Lauric acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

24.

Estrin NF

Haynes CR

Whelan JM

, eds. CTFA Compendium of Cosmetic ingredient Composition. Specifications/Spectra . Washington, DC: CTFA; 1982.

25.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. Cosmetic ingredient chemical description: Myristic acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

26.

Chemline. Online database.Chemical Abstract Society, 1988.

27.

Lewis Sr RJ

, ed. Hawley’s Condensed Chemical Dictionary. New York, NY: John Wiley; 1997:13.

28.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Specification NIKKOL ICR-R (isocetyl myristate). Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2007.

29.

British Pharmaceutical Codex. London, England: The Pharmaceutical Press; 1973.

30.

Windholz M

, ed. The Merck Index. Rahway, NJ: Merck and Co ; 1976:9.

31.

Wade A

, ed. Martindale: The Extra Pharmacopoeia. London, England: Pharmaceutical Press; 1977:27.

32.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Specification NIKKOL ODM-100 (Octyldodecetyl myristate). Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2007.

33.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Specification NIKKOL potassium myristate MK-140. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2007.

34.

Danisco Ingredients. UV-spectra for glycerol monoesters. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1999.

35.

CTFA. Myristates: Summary of unpublished data. (31.5a). Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

36.

Hawley CC

, ed. Condensed Chemical Dictionary. 9th ed. New York, NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold Co; 1977:10.

37.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Manufacturing process NIKKOL ICM-R (isocetyl myristate). Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008.

38.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. Cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Isopropyl myristate. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

39.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. Cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Myristyl myristate. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

40.

Personal Care Products Council. Concentration of use-potential additions to the butyl myristate report. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008.

41.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Manufacturing process NIKKOL ODM-100 (Octyldocetyl myristate). Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008.

42.

Nikko Chemicals Co, Ltd. Manufacturing process NIKKOL potassium myristate MD-140, 2008.

43.

Taiko Oil Chem. Col. Ltd. Manufacturing process MNK-40 (water, postassium cocoate and potassium myristate. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008.

44.

Hashimoto A.

Hirotani A.

Mukai K.

Thin-layer chromatography of true wax 8. Nippon Nogei Kagaku Kaishi. 1967;41(4): 139-144.

45.

Lefort D.

Paquot C.

Pourchez A.

Gas chromatography and lipochemistry. VI. Comparison of the methyl, propyl, and isopropyl esters of fatty acids by gas chromatography. Oleagineux. 1962; 17:629-630.

46.

Lutz DA

Eddy CR

Hunter JJ

X-ray diffraction study of some normal alkyl esters of long-chain acids. Lipids. 1967;2(3):204-207.

47.

Horwitz W

, ed. Official Methods of Analysis of the Association of Official Analytical Chemists (AOAC). 13th ed. Washington, DC: AOAC; 1980: 18.

48.

Estrin NF

Haynes CR

Whelan JW

Cosmetic Ingredient Descriptions. CTFA Compedium of Cosmetic Ingredient Composition . Washington, DC: CTFA;1982.

49.

Senzel A

, ed. Newburger’s Manual of Cosmetic Analysis. Washington DC: AOAC; 1977:2.

50.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. CTFA cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Myristic acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

51.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. CTFA cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Palmitic acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

52.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. CTFA cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Oleic acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

53.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. CTFA cosmetic ingredient chemical description. Stearic acid. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1979.

54.

Takatori T.

Terazawa K.

Nakano K.

Matsumiya H.

Identification of 10-hydroxy-12-octadecenoic acid in adipocere. Forensic Sci Internat. 1983;23(2-3):117-122.

55.

Van de Vaart FJ

Hulshoff A.

Indemans AWM.

Analysis of creams. V. Application of thin-layer chromatography. Parts I and II. Pharm Weekblad Sci. 1983;5(3):109-118.

56.

The characterization of long-chain fatty acids and their derivatrves by chromatography. In: Ciddings JC, Grushka E, Cazes J, Brown PR, eds. Advances in Chromatography. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker; 1980.

57.

Smith RM

Recent advances in the high-performance liquid chromatography of fatty acids . J Pharm Biomed Anal. 1983;1(2): 143-151.

58.

Davis DV

Cooks RG

Direct characterization of nutmeg constituents by mass spectrometry-mass spectrometry . J Agric Food Chem. 1982;30(3):495-504.

59.

Shimasaki H.

Ueta N.

Fractionation of the neutral lipids of rice-bran oil by centrifugal liquid chromatography. Agric Biol Chem . 1983;47(2):327-329.

60.

Cyong J.

Okada H.

Histochemical studies on fatty acid in lymphocyte-mediated immune reaction . Immunology. 1976; 30(5):763-767.

61.

Bailey AV

, Pittmann RA. Wide-line NMR spectra of some saturated and unsaturated long chain fatty acids. J Am Oil Chem Soc. 1971 ;48(12):775-777.

62.

Arudi RI

Sutherland MW

Bielski BHJ

Purification of oleic acid and linoleic acid. J Lipid Res . 1983;24(4):485-488.

63.

Cotte M.

Dumas P.

Besnard M.

Tchoreloff P.

, Walter P. Synchrotron FT-IR microscopic study of chemical enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: example of fatty acids. J Control Release. 2004;97(2):269-281.

64.

Danisco Ingredients. Impurity analysis for glycerol monoesters. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1999.

65.

Danisco Ingredients ‘‘Impurity analysis’’ for glcerol monoesters. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1999.

66.

Estrin NF

, ed. CTFA Standards: cosmetic Ingredient Specifications, Isopropyl Myristate. Washington DC: Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association; 1974.

67.

Spectrum Chemicals and Laboratory Products. Certificate of analysis: Methyl myristate. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008:1 pages.

68.

FDA.

Frequency of use of cosmetic ingredients. FDA Database. Washington, DC: FDA ; 2007.

69.

Personal Care Products Council. Concentration of use - Potential additions to the butyl myristate report. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008:7 pages.

70.

Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association. Concentration of use information for proposed additions to the December 2006 re-reviews. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 2006.

71.

Personal Care Products Council. Concentration of use - Myristic acid. Unpublished data submitted by the Council, 2008:1 page.

72.

Industrial hygiene. In:

Willeke K

Baron PA

, eds. Aerosol Measurement. Principles, Techniques and Applications. New York, NY: John Wiley; 1993.

73.

Absorption of toxicants by the lungs. In:

Klassen CD

, ed. Casarret and Doull’s Toxicology: the Basic Science of Poisons. New York, NY : McGraw-Hill; 2008.

74.

Bower D.

Unpublished information on hair spray particle sizes provided at the September 9, 1999, CIR Expert Panel meeting. 1999.

75.

Johnsen MA

The Influence of Particle Size. Spray Technol Mark . 2004;(11): pp. 24-27.

76.

In:

Patty FA

, ed. Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology. New York, NY: Interscience Publishers; 1963:2(2).

77.

FDA.

Food additives permitted for direct addition to food for human consumption: Fatty acids. Code Federal Regulations; 2008 21:100-101.

78.

In:

Hawley CC

, ed. The Condensed Chemical Dictionary. 8th ed. New York, NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold Company ; 1971.

79.

FDA.

Food additives permitted for direct addition to food for human consumption. Code of Federal Regulations. 2003. 172.515.

80.

Gosselin RE

Hodge HC

Smith RP

Gleason MN

Clinical Toxicology of Commercial Products; Acute Poisoning 1. Baltimore, MD: Williams and Wilkins Co; 1976.

81.

Rioux V.

Galat A.

Vinci G.

Jan F.

D’Andrea S.

Legrand P.

Exogenous myristic acid acylates proteins in cultrued rat hepatocytes . J Nutr Biochem. 2002;13(2):66-74.

82.

Savary P.

Constantin J.

Intestinal hydrolysis and lymphatic absorption of isopropyl esters of long-chain fatty acids in the rat. Biochim Biophys Acta . 1970;218(2):195-200.

83.

Savary P.

Action of rat pancreatic juice and of purified pig pancreatic lipase upon the esters of short-chain aliphatic mono-acids and long-chain primary monoalcohols . Biochim Biophys Acta. 1972 ;270:463-471.

84.

Finkelstein P.

Wulf RJ

Uptake, distribution, and excretion of a commercial aerosol antiperspirant by the monkey. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1974;25:645-654.

85.

Suzuki M.

Asaba K.

Komatsu H.

Mochizuka M.

Autoradiographic study on percutaneous absorption of several oils useful for cosmetics. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1978 ;29:265-282.

86.

Brinkmann I.

Müller-Goymann CC

An attempt to clarify the influence of glycerol, propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate and a combination of propylene glycol and isopropyl myristate on human stratum corneum. Pharmazie. 2005;60(3):215-220.

87.

Christy MNA

Bellantone RA

Taft DR

Plakogannis RM

In vitro evaluation of the release of albuterol sulfate from polymer gels: effect of fatty acids on drug transport across biological membranes. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2002;28(10): 1221-1229.

88.

Gwak HS

Kin SU

Chun IK

Effect of vehicles and enhancers on the in vitro permeation of melatonin through hairless mouse skin 6. Arch Pharm Res. 2002 ;25(3):392-396.

89.

Gondaliya D.

Pundarikakshudu K.

Studies in formulation and phamacotechnical evaluation of controlled release transdermal delivery system of bupropion . AAPS Pharm Sci Tech. 2003; 4(1):E3.

90.

Mittal A.

Sara UVS

Ali A.

Aqil M.

The effect of penetration enhancers on permeation kinetics of nitrendipine in two different skin models. Biol Pharm Bull. 2008;31(9):1766-1772.

91.

Merino V.

Mico-Alinana T.

Nacher A.

Diez-Sales O.

Herraez M.

Merino-Sanjuan M.

Enhancement of nortriptyline penetration through human peidermis: influence of chemical enhancers and iontophoresis. Pharm Pharmacol . 2008;60(4): 415-420.

92.

Limpongsa E.

Umprayn K.

Preparation and evaluation of diltiazem hydrochloride diffuion-controlled transdermal delivery system. AAPS Pharm Sci.Tech. 2008;9(2):464-470.

93.

Furuishi T.

Io T.

Fukami T.

Suzuki T.

Tomono K.

Formulation and in vitro evaluation of pentazocine transdermal delivery system. Biol Pharm Bull. 2008;31(7):1439-1443.

94.

El Maghraby GM

Alanazi FK

Alsarra IA

Transdermal delivery of tadalafil. I. Effect of vehicles on skin permeation. Drug Dev.Ind.Pharm.2009;35(3):329-336.

95.

Bounoure F.

Skiba ML

Besnard M.

Arnaud P.

Mallet E.

Skiba M.

Effect of iontophoresis and penetration enhancers on transdermal absorption of metopimazine. J Dermatol Sci . 2008;52(3): 170-177.

96.

Ambade KW

Jadhav SL

Gambhire MN

Kurmi SD

Kadam VJ

Jadhav KR

Formulation and evaluation of flurbiprofen microemulsion. Curr Drug Deliv. 2008;5(1):32-41.

97.

Osama H.

Narumiya S.

Hayaishi W.

Iinuma H.

Takeuchi T.

Umezawa H.

Inhibition of brain prostaglandin D synthetase and prostaglandin D2 dehydrogenase by some saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Biochem Biophys Acta. 1983;752(2): 251-258.

98.

Takeara R.

Jimenez PC

Wilke DV

, et al. Antileukemic effects of Didemnum psammatodes (Tunicata: Ascidiacea) constituents. Comp Biochem Physiol A Mol Integr Physiol. 2008;151:(3): 363-369.

99.

Laboratoire de Recherche et d’Experimentation. Attestation of biological test. Unpublished data submitted by CTFA, 1994:.

100.

Food and Drug Research Laboratories Inc. Report to RIFM. 5-21-1976.

101.

CTFA. 1978. Acute Dermal Toxicity in Rabbits. (31.5b. p. 35). Unpublished data submitted by CTFA.

102.

Motoyoshi K.

Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by sqalene and oleic acid peroxides . Br J Dermatol. 1983;109: 191-198.

103.

Fulton JE

Pay SR

Comedogenicity of current therapeiutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1984 ;10:96-105.

104.

Tucker SB

Flanigan SA

Dunbar M.

Drotman RB

Development of an objective comedogenicity assay. Arch Dermatol . 1986; 122:660-665.

105.

Nguyen SH

Dang TP

Maibach HI

Comedogenicity in rabbit: some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles. Cutaneous Ocular Toxicol. 2007;26:287-292.

106.

Blevins RD

Taylor DE

Mutagenicity screening of twenty-five cosmetic ingredients with the Salmonella/microsome test. J Environ Sci Health Part A. 1982;17:(2):214-239.

107.

Kligman AM. Report to RIFM dated June 1, 1976. Unpublished data submitted by RIFM, 1976:2 pages.

108.

Research Institute for Fragrance Materials. Ethyl myristate . Food and Chem Toxicol. 1978;16:(4):745-746.

109.

Uter W.

Schnuch A.

Heier J.

Lessmann H.

Isopropyl myristate recommended for aimed rather than routine patch testing . Contact Dermatitis. 2004;50:242-244.

110.

Bharati A.

King CM

Allergic contact dermatitis from isohexadecane and isopropyl myristate. Contact Dermatitis . 2004; 50(256):257.