Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

New developments using artificial intelligence and the computer can effect changes in the production of apparel and ultimate consumer satisfaction with apparel products. Much data specification is needed before apparel can be manufactured that quickly and efficiently takes into account the individual body of the consumer. Trial and error fitting methods will no longer be economically feasible with such customized production. Garment fit and ease preferences are explored in this research to determine feasibility of an individually fitted, computer generated pant. A customized pant was made for each of 38 female subjects using a computer-aided-design program that took into account the following factors: body size, configuration, alignment, proportions, and preferred ease amounts of the wearer. A level of prediction for ease was achieved with these pants and 27 of 28 of the final subjects rated their pant as satisfactory or very satisfactory following a seven hour wear test.

The purpose of this study was to compare the job content of apparel buyers in large and small retail companies. Data were collected from 100 department store buyers and 153 independent specialty store buyers in four merchandise categories: women's, men's, and children's apparel and other apparel and accessories. The Position Analysis Questionnaire was used to describe the buyer's job content with regard to 64 worker-oriented job elements. Bonferroni paired comparison t-tests were used to adjust for a Type I error. Results tended to confirm general perceptions that large store buyers (LSBs) were more quantitative, assertive, skillful in negotiations, and time conscious than were small store buyers (SSBs). SSBs appeared to be more consumer, community, and hands-on oriented than LSBs. Similarities in job content elements or universal components were also found Buyers in both sizes of organizations found the following job elements to be important or frequently used: judging quality, estimating quantity, making decisions, and personal sacrifice.

Sample groups of 35 female adolescents with scoliosis and 35 peers without scoliosis were studied. The purposes of this research were (1) to investigate differences in selected clothing importance factors and self-perception domains between the two groups, and (2) to investigate the relationship between clothing importance and setf-perception within and between groups. Clothing variables were operationally defined by scores on an instrument used to measure the following clothing factors: conformity in clothing, modesty in clothing, psychological awareness of clothing, clothing to enhance self-concept, and interest in clothing. The Self-Perception Profile for Adolescents measured social acceptance, athletic competence, romantic appeal, physical attractiveness, and global self-worth. Data were analyzed using t-tests, Pearson Product Moment correlations, and Fisher's z_r transformation. There was a difference between the two groups on only one clothing measure; the scoliosis sample had significantly lower scores on clothing to enhance self concept than did their peers. Significant differences were found between groups on all setf-perception variables with the scoliosis sample having the lower scores. Within groups 13 significant relationships were found between clothing importance and setf-perception for the scoliosis group and only two for the comparison group.

Quick Response has proven financial benefits, but less than one half of U.S. apparel manufacturers have implemented it. This study investigated apparel manufacturers' demographics as related to adoption of Quick Response. Two hundred and three North Carolina apparel manufacturers were sent a mailed questionnaire, resulting in a 48% (N = 66) adjusted return rate.

Factor analysis reduced the 17 Quick Response statements to 5 factors. Multivariate analysis of variance and one-way analysis of variance were used to determine the relationship of apparel manufacturers' demographics to the adoption of Quick Response. Significant differences existed in Quick Response adoption for size levels and merchandise classifications. Improved knowledge of Quick Response adoption has implications for apparel manufacturers and retailers when developing strategic plans. Textile and clothing academicians may use the results in developing research and educational programs.

In Part I Peirce's trichotomy of icon, index, and symbol is described as the theoretical frame for analyzing signifying aspects of animal emblems; Panofsky's model of interpreting visual art forms is discussed as the method for interpreting the signs. In Part II representative emblems are interpreted and their signification proposed Iconic interpretation suggests that the signs affirm human dominion over the natural world and that they perform social gatekeeping functions. Indexical interpretation suggests the signs point to deception in social relationships and serve as metaphoric reference to conditions of angst and alienation. Interpretation as symbol reveals that the signs delineate relationships in the fashion goods hierarchy, stand as power markers, serve as archetypes of classical myth, and function as tokens of participation in the consumption ritual. The potential value of Peirce's trichotomy for further study of semiotics in clothing and dress is suggested.

This paper details the process of Korean women's abandoning traditional dress and its accessories for the more functional western dress. We analyzed the reported reactions of a sample of Korean women to their experiences during the acculturation period from 1945 to 1962. The 21 women selected for interviews had lived in Korea through the acculturation period and were now living in the United States.

The findings generated from this study of Korean women's adoption of western-style dress during the acculturation period revolve around the variables of age and education, physical and psychological comfort, body image, societal and peer pressures, and clothing symbolism as ethnic identity makers. This exploratory study using acculturation as a framework for understanding the different reactions of Korean women showed that change has been dramatic and relatively swift, influenced by two major factors: age and educational background The adoption of western clothing by Korean women reflects their acceptance of this new cultural milieu.

Many agricultural workers wear disposable nonwoven coveralls while applying pesticides in the field. The degree of protection these garments offer after abrasive wear has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of abrasion on the penetration of a liquid pesticide, tri-allate, through selected disposable garment fabrics: Kleenguard® EP and Tyvek®. The relationship between the initial thickness and the initial mass of the fabric specimens and pesticide penetration also was examined to determine the effect of initial fabric variability on penetration. Penetration of tri-allate through the two fabrics differed statistically although total penetration was less than 1 % for both fabrics. Abrasion simulating one day's wearing resulted in a statistically significant increase in penetration through Kleenguard® EP but had no effect on penetration through Tyvek®. Initial mean thickness correlated with the penetration of tri-allate for Tyvek® at all three levels of abrasion and for unabraded Kleenguard® EP, but there was no correlation between initial mean thickness and pesticide penetration on abraded Kleenguard® EP specimens. Abrasion was a greater determinant of the rate of pesticide penetration than initial variability in thickness for Kleenguard® EP; initial variability in thickness remained a significant factor in pesticide penetration even after abrasion for Tyvek®. Initial mass did not correlate with pesticide penetration for either fabric.

Increased likelihood of armed forces operations occurring in hostile climatic regions have increased the need for highly specialized protective clothing systems. Protection is needed under a variety of conditions which often present conflicting requirements. Protective military clothing provides broad design possibilities and stimulates research for new textile materials and equipment. Development of protective gear provides the possibility for interdisciplinary teaching and research. Disciplines such as textile engineering, electrical engineering, industrial engineering and design, clothing design, textile science, and physiology can all be combined to provide satisfactory solutions to design problems presented by protective clothing systems. Current requirements for protective military clothing, problems with gear, and critical factors which can be addressed by clothing and textiles research are included.

The purpose of this study was to identify the relationship between need for variety and four consumer groups: fashion opinion leaders, fashion innovators, innovative communicators, and fashion followers. We predicted that fashion opinion leaders, fashion innovators, and innovative communicators would have a greater need for variety than would fashion followers. Subjects were 425 undergraduate students. Hirschman and Adcock's Measurement of Innovativeness and Opinion Leadership was used to identify the four consumer groups. Need for variety was measured by the Sensation Seeking Scale. Data were analyzed using analysis of variance and the Student-Newman-Keuls test. Results indicated that there was a significant difference between fashion innovators and fashion followers on need for variety as measured by the experience seeking component of the Sensation Seeking Scale. There were no significant differences between fashion opinion leaders or innovative communicators and fashion followers on the Sensation Seeking Scale. Results suggest that part of the psychological makeup of fashion innovators is a greater need for variety in the form of mental stimulation than fashion followers possess.