Abstract
Using the theoretical lenses of intersectionality and racial-ethnic socialization, we conducted a focus group study with 29 Black women. We analyzed transcripts via a grounded theory approach for the sources of messages about skin color and hair and for participants’ responses to these messages. Family members were the primary source of messages about skin color and hair. Peers and the media also communicated such messages. Messages ranged from endorsement of Western standards of beauty to an embrace of darker skin colors and natural hair texture. Rather than serving as passive recipients of messages, participants sifted through and reconciled messages with varying degrees of resolution. Their accounts reflected their intersectional experiences as Black women representing a variety of physical attributes. We discuss the influence of these physical attributes on their individual racial-gender identity development in light of a second burgeoning Black hair movement in the United States, that embraces Black natural hair. Findings may help families and others build understanding of, and increase sensitivity toward, the intra- and interpersonal implications of colorism for Black women. Findings may also inform institutional policies (e.g., school, work) and practices to reduce barriers and improve consequences for the Black women navigating these settings.
For generations, Black women have endured the dominant beauty narrative that white skin, a narrow nose, thin lips, and long, straight hair are the standards for beauty to which all women should aspire (Awad et al., 2014; Okazawa-Rey, Robinson, & Ward, 1987; Russell, Wilson, & Hall, 2013). Despite the longevity and pervasiveness of colorism in the United States, little is known about how messages about beauty, skin color, and hair factor into socialization messages about race (D. L. Brown, Blackmon, Rosnick, Griffin-Fennell, & White-Johnson, 2016; Lesane-Brown, Scottham, Nguyen, & Sellers, 2008; Stevenson, Cameron, Herrero-Taylor, & Davis, 2002). Further, only a small amount of research has addressed types of racial socialization messages that are specifically conveyed to Black girls and young women regarding the meaning and importance of their skin color and hair (i.e., colorism; Leonard, 2009), even though these physical characteristics are core parts of femininity and gender socialization for all women.
Researchers are increasing their attention to gender as a focal variable in the racial socialization process (T. L. Brown, Linver, & Evans, 2010; McHale et al., 2006; Thomas & Blackmon, 2015; Thomas & King, 2007; Thomas & Speight, 1999). Seeking to consider the role of race coupled with gender in day-to-day experiences, we conducted a series of focus groups to learn about the gendered racial socialization of African American men and women (Smith-Bynum, 2013). We present a subset of data from that study, focusing on the experiences of the women with regard to their gendered socialization experiences around hair and skin color.
Racial Socialization and Gender
Research has established that racial socialization is a key parenting practice that fosters positive development in Black youth and young adults, and one that helps protect youth from experiences of racism (Bynum, Burton, & Best, 2007; Harrison, Wilson, Pine, Chan, & Buriel, 1990). The dominant theoretical racial socialization frameworks do not differentiate children and youth by gender; scholars focus largely on preparing children and young adults to cope with racial bias and promoting cultural pride (e.g., Hughes et al., 2006; Lesane-Brown, 2005; Stevenson et al., 2002). However, a growing body of research demonstrates that the gender of the child influences the types of messages that parents give (T. L. Brown et al., 2010; Butler-Barnes, Richardson, Chavous, & Zhu, in press; Caughy, Nettles, O’Campo, & Lohrfink, 2006; Priest et al., 2014; Thomas & King, 2007; Varner & Mandara, 2013).
Studies suggest that parents not only deliver different messages in general based on a child’s gender, but that children receive different types of racial socialization messages based on their gender. For example, African American girls report receiving more messages about cultural pride and fewer messages about racial bias, while African American boys report receiving more coping with racial bias messages and fewer messages about cultural pride promotion (Bowman & Howard, 1985; Burt & Simons, 2015; McHale et al., 2006; McNeil Smith, Reynolds, Fincham, & Beach, 2016). In one study of African American mothers and their adolescent children (ages 14–17), mothers of daughters were more likely to communicate plans to advocate on behalf of their daughters and less likely to provide strategies on how to respond to racial dilemmas than mothers of sons (Smith-Bynum, Anderson, Davis, Franco, & English, 2016). These findings indicate that gender is a factor in the racial socialization process and that further investigation is warranted to deepen our understanding of gendered racial socialization experiences for individuals in Black families.
To our knowledge, there is only one published study that examines how (and from whom) Black women learn about skin color (Wilder & Cain, 2011). Utilizing five focus groups with Black women between the ages of 18 and 40 (N = 26), the authors highlighted the continued existence and negative effects of colorism in the lives of Black women, maintained, in part, by Black families. The authors also drew awareness to what they call the “race paradox” within Black families: “Although many participants’ families engaged in racial socialization practices to celebrate Blackness and to protect them from the realities of racism, families also engaged in practices of color socialization that simultaneously denigrate darkness” (Wilder & Cain, 2011, p. 597).
Black Women and Colorism in the United States
One topic that may be a direct or indirect component of racial socialization—particularly for women—is the importance and relevance of skin color and hair. Colorism is a global ideology that denigrates darker skin and tightly coiled hair, two unmistakable physical traits associated with African heritage (E. A. Adams, Kurtz-Costes, & Hoffman, 2016; Awad et al., 2014; Burke, 2008; B. Greene, 1994; M. E. Hill, 2002; Hunter, 2007; Patton, 2006; M. S. Thompson & Keith, 2001). Studies conducted over decades and across multiple fields of study have demonstrated that colorism has measurable consequences for Black women in the United States (Choma & Prusaczyk, 2018; Drake & Cayton, 1945; Fischer & Shaw, 1999; Golden, 2004; Haizlip, 1994; Parham, 1989; Thomas, Hacker, & Hoxha, 2011; Townsend, Thomas, Neilands, & Jackson, 2010).
On average, women with darker skin colors have poorer mental health, physical health, self-esteem, and lower socioeconomic status than their lighter skinned counterparts (E. A. Adams et al., 2016; Mathews & Johnson, 2015; Sweet, McDade, Kiefe, & Liu, 2007). Studies also have shown that women with lighter skin fare better in the mate selection market, securing higher status spouses than their counterparts with darker skin (Drake & Cayton, 1945; Hughes & Hertel, 1990; Keith & Herring, 1991). Natural hair has largely been considered to be unprofessional, unattractive, and unfeminine, and is associated with various negative socio-professional outcomes (e.g., lower incomes, harsher workplace conditions; B. Greene, White, & Whitten, 2000; J. C. Hall, Everett, & Hamilton-Mason, 2012; Mic, 2018; C. Thompson, 2009; White, 2005).
During the late 1960s and 1970s, the “Black is Beautiful” era ushered in a temporary reprieve from the dominance of colorism among Black Americans in the United States (Goering, 1971; Neal & Wilson, 1989; Okazawa-Rey et al., 1987). The advantages afforded to lighter skinned people weakened during this period. Substantive numbers of Black Americans, and notably women, began wearing Afros rather than chemically straightening their hair. Black Americans with darker skin complexions faced less inter-racial and intra-racial discrimination during this period (Udry, Bauman, & Chase, 1971). However, some disadvantages still remained. While Black men with dark skin generally experienced an increase in upward mobility, Black women with dark skin did not.
Skin Color and Hair Messages Within Racial Socialization
Skin color and hair are two phenotypic features that people reference to determine a person’s race (T. D. Brown & Dane, 1998; Maddox, 2004); however, there is little empirical research examining how conversations about race include messages regarding one’s hair and skin color. In a study of Black families with pre-teen children (N = 767), Landor and colleagues (2013) found that boys with darker skin reported receiving mistrust messages more frequently from their parents than did boys with lighter skin colors. Girls’ skin color was unrelated to the frequency of these same messages. Children of parents with lighter skin received more messages advocating promotion of mistrust from their parents if they were boys rather than if they were girls. In contrast, children of parents with darker skin colors promoted more messages of mistrust with their daughters than with their sons. While one’s parents' skin color is not our primary factor of interest, Landor and colleagues’ (2013) findings provide evidence to support the phenomenon of gendered racial socialization.
Recently, Bailey-Fakhoury (2014) focused on hair in a study exploring gendered racial socialization processes among mothers seeking to promote a positive racial identity in their elementary-age daughters attending a predominantly White school. Specifically, mothers used an imaging strategy to teach and show their daughters how to embrace their Black features. They highlighted the versatility of their child’s hair and exposed them to images of other Black girls and women with similar hair through pictures of family and friends and the media.
At least two racial socialization measures focus on instilling cultural pride by teaching children to not be ashamed of their appearance including their skin color (Lesane-Brown et al., 2008; Stevenson et al., 2002). These studies demonstrate that parent–child communication about racial issues includes messages about physical features. And these studies highlight the gendered nature of these conversations; thus, they illuminate the relevancy of explicitly examining physical attributes within gendered racial socialization processes.
Theories of Gendered Racial Socialization
We combined a traditional racial socialization theoretical approach (Hughes et al., 2006) with intersectionality theory (Crenshaw, 1989) in order to frame the experiences of racial socialization among Black women (e.g., see D. L. Brown et al., 2016). Intersectionality theory re-conceptualizes classic feminist theory to include the experiences and concerns of Black women. Further, intersectionality scholars emphasize, not only the simultaneous contributions of multiple social locations, but also the oppression inherent in each of them (Collins, 2000; Settles, 2006). This is important as theory on racial socialization usually only focuses on racial oppression and often does not consider other oppressions including those related to being a girl or a woman.
Integrating gender with existing racial socialization theory allowed us to consider both race and gender and how these identities simultaneously contribute to Black women’s distinct lived experiences. With this framework, we were also able to consider how the interlocking systems of gender oppression and racial oppression shaped our participants’ understanding of the messages that they received regarding their physical characteristics from their families and others (Capodilupo & Kim, 2014).
The Current Study
Using an intersectional framework and previous research as guides, we explored the gendered racial socialization experiences regarding messages of skin color and hair in Black women. We examined how these attributes contribute to Black individuals’ racialized experiences and, as such, how these messages about hair or skin color exist within racial socialization processes (e.g., different skin colors or hairstyles may elicit different racial socialization messages). Only a few studies to date have explored this phenomenon in depth (Bailey-Fakhoury, 2014; Landor et al., 2013; Ward, 1996; Wilder & Cain, 2011). We utilized grounded theory methodology (LaRossa, 2005; Strauss & Corbin, 1998) via semi-structured focus groups to answer two research questions: (1) What messages do Black women receive about skin color and hair from family members? and (2) How do Black women manage and make sense of these messages?
Method
Participants
We used data from a larger study focused on the gendered racial experiences of Black young adult men (n = 30) and women (n = 29; Smith-Bynum, 2013). We analyzed the women’s data for the present study. The eligibility criteria for the larger study included the following (a) self-identified as African American, (b) 18 years of age or older, and (c) an undergraduate student. As noted in the Procedure section, several prospective participants who responded to the study advertisements had immigrant backgrounds. The sample participants in the current study represented a variety of ethnic backgrounds: African American (n = 19), African (n = 7), Caribbean/West Indian (n = 2), and Afro-Latino (n = 1). Three women were first-generation immigrants. Participants ranged from age 18 to 22 years (mean age = 20), and a majority were in their senior year of college (see Table 1).
Participant Demographic Information.
Note. Names listed here are pseudonyms selected by each participant. Generational status is based on the information shared about immigrant background and place of birth during the focus group and/or during the recruitment and screening process.
a Beloved indicated that her family was African, but she did not specify her family’s country of origin.
Procedure
Recruitment and enrollment
We collected the data for the current study at a large, public mid-Atlantic predominantly White university (PWI) between July and November 2013. According to institutional data on the racial composition of the college campus where data were collected, the U.S. Black/African American enrollment ranged from 12% to 13% over the course of the 2012–2013 academic year. Less than 1% of undergraduates were Black students from foreign countries during that time period (The Office of Institutional Research, Planning, and Assessment, 2013). We distributed a flyer describing the study and the inclusion criteria on a listserv comprised of Black students at the university. We also disseminated the flyer to Black student organizations and made direct requests to students during organizational meetings. Last, flyers were strategically placed around campus in spaces known to be frequented areas by African American students (e.g., the campus Black cultural center).
Prospective study participants completed a Google-based screening survey assessing their year in school, gender, age, race/ethnicity (e.g., African American, African, Caribbean/West Indian, multiracial), and contact information. We contacted individuals who met the baseline enrollment criteria for a telephone screening, during which we provided an overview of the study objectives and procedures. We also reassessed the enrollment criteria during the telephone interview and provided information about the risks and benefits of participating in the study.
Participants received reminders via email or text of the focus group date. Focus groups for men and women were conducted separately. Seven focus groups were conducted with the women on the university campus. At the beginning of the focus groups, participants completed a consent form. In addition, participants completed a confidentiality pledge that they would not reveal the participation of any group members. Each participant also selected a pseudonym, which they put on a nameplate on the table in front of them to aid discussion. The interviews were audio-recorded and lasted between 75 and 150 minutes. The groups ranged between 3 and 6 participants per group. Participants were each given US$15 for their time.
During the first 2 weeks of data collection for the larger study, we noticed that some participants differed in their familiarity with the African American experience, despite the fact that they identified as African American during enrollment. At this point, we had completed two focus groups with men (n = 8) and five focus groups with women participants (n = 17). In one instance, a male participant referred to African Americans as an outgroup rather than as a group of which he was a member. We queried some participants with immigrant backgrounds to assess whether our enrollment procedures had been effective. Participants reported that some people with immigrant backgrounds adopt the ethnic label “African American” in certain circumstances, even when they did not feel a deep connection to the group (e.g., racial centrality; Asante, Sekimoto, & Brown, 2016; Benson, 2006; Clark, 2008; Sellers, Smith, Shelton, Rowley, & Chavous, 1998). Though we retained all participants for data analysis, we concluded that the overall screening process needed adjusting to better ensure that we were capturing the African American experience.
With institutional review board (IRB) approval, we modified our screening process by first asking about “place of birth” and screened out participants who immigrated after age 10. General and racial-ethnic identity development becomes particularly salient in early adolescence (Marcia, 1980; Phinney, 1992); therefore, we assumed that participants who had immigrated to the United States by this age would have had an identity development process in the U.S. race-based context (Case & Hunter, 2014; Marcia, 1980; Phinney, 1992; Sellers et al., 1998).
Second, we asked foreign-born students who met the age criterion, “On a scale from 0 to 10, 10 being most able to relate, how much do you feel you can relate to the African American experience?” We deemed prospective participants who reported a 9 or 10 as having sufficiently strong identification with the African American experience, thus able to answer questions on the study protocol as members of the group (Asante et al., 2016; Sellers et al., 1998).
Using this same criterion, we assessed the background of the 25 individuals who had already participated in focus groups. Six individuals (n = 3 men, n = 3 women) were born outside the United States, two of whom came to the United States after age 10. We also reassessed their experiences. All of the women were able to describe experiences that fit within the narrative of African American life; thus, we did not exclude their experiences from the analysis.
Semi-structured focus group interviews
Focus group methodology permits multiple perspectives on the meaning of a phenomenon of interest and facilitates saturation of a subject (Kerr, Nixon, & Wild, 2010). Using previous research on racial socialization and intersectionality theory as a guide, we created a semi-structured, open-ended interview protocol to encourage participants to provide in-depth descriptions of racial socialization messages they had received, based on whether they identified as a Black woman or man (Strauss & Corbin, 1998; see Appendix A). We analyzed answers to the question, “Talk to us about issues of skin color, hair texture, body shape in the Black community.” Facilitators presented a follow-up prompt to identify the sources of the messages participants received (e.g., parents). Facilitators also asked participants to share how messages about skin color, hair, and body shape have influenced how they view themselves (i.e., Question 5, Appendix A). We omitted data on body shape for two reasons: (1) participants provided a large number of responses to the topic, which extended beyond the scope of the present study and (2) our preliminary review of the data indicated that messages about body shape deserved its own data analytic inquiry to excavate the meaning making process fully and accurately.
Data Analysis
The transcription team consisted of the authors and three trained undergraduate research assistants who received course credit for their efforts. Transcribers listened to each digital audio recording of the interviews verbatim. Prior to analysis, the first author reviewed transcribed data and cleaned all data of the transcripts as necessary. The data were analyzed using a grounded theory approach (LaRossa, 2005). Milliken and Schreiber (2001) assert that in grounded theory, “the researcher’s job is to investigate the socially constructed meanings that form the participants’ realities and the behaviors that flow from those meanings” (p. 180). The goal of grounded theory is to understand phenomena based on the personal accounts of participants’ experiences and their interpretations of their experiences (Charmaz, 2006).
There are three distinct yet overlapping processes of analysis involved in grounded theory: open coding, axial coding, and selective coding. The coding team consisted of an African American woman (first author), a second-generation Haitian American woman, a second-generation Liberian American man (third author), and a Biracial Chinese-White woman. The first and third authors conducted the open coding by allowing the codes to emerge inductively as codes were being identified. There was no preset coding scheme beyond focusing on experiences pertaining to the constructs of interest—skin color and hair—responses to the prompts (Questions 4 and 5) or comments regarding skin color and hair that emerged at other times within the discussion. We used NVivo software (version 9) to organize and analyze the data.
The open-coding analysis entailed a repeated reading of the transcripts, identifying concepts, and generating initial codes. The team met to discuss initial codes generated during the open-coding phase and evaluated the similarity and the consistency of the meaning of the codes. The team also discussed codes produced by each of the two single coders and determined whether to include or discard them (i.e., inter-rater agreement; Campbell, Quincy, Osserman, & Pederson, 2013). The team organized agreed upon codes under potential themes after reviewing codes in relation to one another (i.e., axial coding; Charmaz, 2006). The team completed the final stage, selective coding, which entails defining the core theme or category in order to develop a storyline. This process yielded an overarching story line of the reconciliation of messages regarding one’s appearance (i.e., skin color, hair).
Data Quality
The research team devoted substantial efforts to establishing trustworthiness, which is a crucial marker in demonstrating the merit of qualitative research and ensuring that the data are of high quality (Krefting, 1991; Lincoln & Guba, 1985). We sought to achieve trustworthiness by demonstrating credibility (i.e., establishing confidence in the truth of findings), transferability (i.e., assessing whether the finding could be applicable to other contexts, situations, times, and/or populations), and dependability (i.e., assessing whether the finding would be consistent in the event the inquiry were replicated in a similar context).
The semi-structured interview format allowed for dialogue between the interviewer and the participants; this format provided the opportunity for participants to evaluate the truth in the conversation and to correct the interviewer if there was a misunderstanding about a participant’s experience. This common method, member checking, was used to establish credibility (Krefting, 1991). We also used a time sampling strategy, which enhances credibility and transferability of strategies for ensuring trustworthiness. We accomplished this by interviewing individuals in different times of the academic year (i.e., summer vs. fall) and on different days of the week and times of the day. We also used triangulation of investigators (Krefting, 1991), which involved having different team members analyze the data to prevent selective perceptions, illuminate blind spots in an interpretive analysis, and understand multiple ways of seeing the data.
Positionality and Reflexivity
In line with grounded theory methods, the research team considered how their positions and backgrounds might have influenced the study. This process is termed reflexivity (W. A. Hall & Callery, 2001; Mauthner & Doucet, 2003; Watt, 2007). We accounted for two types of interactions: (1) researcher influence on research design and decisions and (2) researcher–participant interactions during data collection (Gentles, Jack, Nicholas, & McKibbon, 2014). After an assessment of how much time was needed per question, the research team decided to shift the pacing of the focus group protocol. After the first two focus groups, we realized that by the time we reached Questions 4 and 5 there was not sufficient time left for the participants to fully share their responses. During those first two groups, facilitators provided participants with the opportunity to stay longer if they wished to continue sharing. Then the research team agreed to adjust the pacing of the protocol for future groups to better ensure that participants would be able to more comprehensively share their experiences regarding hair and skin color.
We were also mindful of the researcher–participant interactions and how these interactions influenced the construction of the data (W. A. Hall & Callery, 2001). It is likely that participants assessed who led the conversations with consideration for the researcher’s age, gender, race/ethnicity, and so on (Gentles et al., 2014). The first author, an African American woman, served as one of two co-facilitators for all of the focus groups with the women. The third author, a second-generation Liberian American man, facilitated six of the seven groups with the first author. The fifth author, an African American woman, co-facilitated the seventh group with the first author. At the time of the study, the facilitators were all in their mid-20s, except the third facilitator who was in middle age. Both women facilitators have light brown skin, and the man has dark brown skin. One woman facilitator (the first author) wore a natural hairstyle, the second wore a relaxed hairstyle, and the man wore a wavy buzz cut.
Occasionally, participants referenced one of the facilitators to help explain themselves. For example, the first author’s skin complexion was brought up and used as a point of reference: “She was light-skinned like you.” In some cases, the participants shared information about natural hair that the male facilitator was not familiar with. The women readily shared definitions when deemed relevant. Facilitators also monitored participant verbal and nonverbal responses, and subsequently asked pertinent follow-up questions for clarification or inquired further about unanticipated responses.
Results
Data analysis revealed three major categories that captured a number of participants’ gendered racial socialization and colorism experiences: (1) shades of Black (n = 27), (2) the politics of hair (n = 27), and (3) the ramifications and resolution of skin and hair messages (n = 29). The following sections describe the experiences of Black women receiving messages about skin color and hair as well as the appraisal of these messages.
Theme 1: Shades of Black
Participants in several focus groups shared that their skin color is the subject of family and societal judgment and debate. Their narratives echoed the longstanding burden of colorism that African American women have faced for generations (C. Thompson, 2009). Whether they ascribed to it or not, almost all participants (n = 23) conveyed that the colorism hierarchy that placed light skin at the top existed. Messages about the hierarchy came most often from mothers and aunts.
Many women stated that a common notion that their families conveyed to them was that lighter skin is more beautiful and better than darker skin. Participants reported that family messages associated lighter skin color with more respect and better opportunities. Participants also revealed the different things that their parents encouraged them to do, or not to do, in order to maintain a preferred complexion (i.e., lighter). Beloved recalled that in the summertime her mother would ask her to stay inside more: My mom, she would just be like don’t stay in the sun too long. When I was growing up…I loved playing basketball…me and my brother would be outside every single day. My mom…she be like you’ve been getting a little bit darker, you should stay inside a little bit.
It appeared that some conversations around skin color evoked negative feelings for some women. Ann reported feeling great discomfort when her mother, whom she described as having a darker complexion than she had, associated her skin color as being good and pretty. Nan recalled that her aunts, whom she described as “very dark skinned,” felt animosity toward her mother because her mother was of a lighter complexion. Nan’s aunts told of their belief that her mother had a better life because of her skin color. She quoted one aunt as saying, “Well you know it’s harder for a darker sister out here in the world, and a light skin sister…they don’t know our struggle at all.’”
Some participants described a family narrative in which no particular skin color had been articulated as more valuable or preferred over another (n = 5). Reflecting back on her childhood, Jade recalled that her mother did not indicate a preference for a particular Black skin color. Her mother endorsed anything that would promote pride in the skin color of Black people: Growing up my mom always made sure to get me not Barbie, but Kristy, the Black Barbie, and uh (laugh) she always made sure like with books I had or whatever, that other was always like, a, she tried to give me stuff where there was a Black character.
Non-Black peers also appeared to endorse colorism. Sara recounted a time she found herself stuck after a White roommate made a comment about the skin color of a new member in their all-women fraternity: [My roommate] was talking about her “little,” “Oh, my ‘little’ has light skin. She just lucked out genetically because [my little’s] [biological] sister has very dark skin.” Every single person looked at me and was like “oh well are you going to say something.” [Internally] I’m like “WHAT did you say??” but I didn’t say a word.
In contrast to the frequently reported messages about perceived problems due to having darker skin, or perceived privileges due to having lighter skin, there were reports of problems as a result of having a light skin tone. Specifically, some light-skinned women reported having their identity redefined by others (e.g., peers, neighborhood members). Michelle shared that people would insist that she was mixed-race, even after she explained how she identified herself: People will demand, “No, you don’t know what you’re talking about. You’re mixed, your half.” I’m like “No I am actually African American, I’m Black.” I get that a lot, people telling me what I am…I’m like how are you gonna tell me?
Theme 2: The Politics of Hair
The majority of the women described having to make decisions regularly about how to wear and style their hair based on messaging from the broader society about mainstream definitions of pretty and/or acceptable hair and hairstyles. In some cases, White Eurocentric ideals, endorsed by family or friends and/or enforced by institutions, such as school or work, influenced women to choose specific hairstyles, while other women purposely defied the standard by wearing their hair naturally. Family members often encouraged or discouraged certain hairstyles. As has been shown in previous work, hair can be complex. Two subthemes emerged from the data that reflect the multilayered and often emotional dilemmas surrounding African American women’s hair.
Subtheme 2a: Family knows best
Racial socialization messages occurred frequently in the form of family advice, praise, and admonitions about how participants should wear their hair. A few women shared the experience of their hair falling out or breaking off and how their family advised them. Sara reflected on the engagement of her parents and their messages of encouragement to get braids: Both of my parents were extremely, like they were PUSHING me to get braids cause like my hair was falling out with the relaxer, and it was not looking good. And my hair is very thick naturally, and it was thinning out. I didn’t like that. My mom was like “whoa, as soon as you get your braids out you need to get natural like for real.” So, we’re going to see how that goes…
What made you decide to go natural 3 years ago?
Well the only person in my family that has a perm is my grandmother. I feel like [my hair] was breaking off…. My aunt was like “how you gonna have a like such an Afrocentric boyfriend and have like permed hair” And I was like…“okay.”
She felt like having relaxed hair was giving off a certain message that was
not…
…Afrocentric
…not congruent with his beliefs and your beliefs?
And how I was raised too…yea so she said that and [the perm] wasn’t doing that much for my hair so I was like, “lemme go natural.”
While “going natural” was a logical step for Kendra, her aunt’s beliefs about permed and natural hair appeared to have also influenced her decision.
In other cases, the women themselves embraced their natural hair, while their family endorsed a Eurocentric beauty standard (i.e., long and straight hair). Beloved described her mother’s reaction when she cut her hair short (see “The Big Chop”; Williams, 2014). “Hair is a big thing for my mom, she had her own salon. When I did the big chop last summer, my mom was so upset. I’ve never seen her like that, and I don’t want to ever see her like that again.”
Tensions also ran high in Nicole’s family: I cut my hair [and] I came back from like Christmas break or whatever, and umm I had my junior prom. [My family] was saying “Oh you’re going to have to get a weave now. Like how are you gonna do your hair? Why would you cut it before prom? You’re going to get it straightened.” So I had A LOT of negativity from like wearing my hair the way it grows out of my scalp.
In some cases, parents advised against certain hairstyles because they believed it would have consequences for their daughter. Jane disclosed, “My mom says you can’t wear braids or dreads or even natural hair; that you really have to have straight hair for like a upper level job, like white collar jobs.” In this instance, Jane’s mom believed that ethnic hairstyles would not be appropriate for the type of job she hoped her daughter would obtain.
Nan recalled a similar experience when she told her mother that she wanted to dye her hair purple: My mom was like “You’re gonna look ghetto like that. Please don’t.” But, you see all these White girls dying their hair purple, but they don’t look trashy! They just look like they’re up with the style. But when I want to dye it this color or that color, and it’s just like no, you have to think about how you are going to portray yourself, because you don’t wanna come off as looking lazy…unkempt or that you don’t look like you respect yourself as much as you should.
Conversations about beauty also involved the attention and engagement from the men in the participants’ lives. A few women recalled conversations with their fathers about hair, including how it should look or be cared for. Brittany noted how much her father loved her hair before it became damaged by flat irons and curling irons: My hair used to be my father’s pride and joy…my hair was really long and thick and my father absolutely loved it, and then as it gradually got shorter as I got older, he was so upset. My father is like so tied to the appearance of my hair so he would be very unhappy right now.
Jade shared that her father also took pride in her hair. It was important to him that her hair looked good, so he would give her money to get her hair done regularly. Sara shared that her father affirmed her decisions to style her hair in ways that suited her: “His big thing was to just find something that accentuated me. That I’m a Black woman with this kind of hair, and I need to feel beautiful in that hair.” While families often promoted styles that endorsed certain hair lengths and/or that involved relaxing or straightening methods (i.e., a more Eurocentric hairstyle), their efforts appeared to be either aimed to protect or uplift the young woman in their life.
Subtheme 2b: Going natural
Despite messages by family members to promote long, straight hair (i.e., Eurocentric standards), a majority of participants described experiences of wearing their hair in its natural state (n = 18). Some women began the process of wearing natural hair with “the big chop.” Others went through a “transitioning” period, growing out their hair, and cutting off chemically relaxed ends over time (Perkins, 2017; Williams, 2014). For many of the women, going natural was linked to cultural pride, akin to reclaiming one’s roots and expressing one’s Blackness (Jeffries & Jeffries, 2014; White, 2005). Participants stated that wearing natural hairstyles helped them broaden what society deemed acceptable and beautiful (Ellis-Hervey, Doss, Davis, Nicks, & Araiza, 2016). However, wearing natural hairstyles elicited some conflict, debate, and negative reactions from others. Several of the women noted that the question to go natural or relax one’s hair was a source of controversial debate among their friends and family. Sasha disclosed how her mother reacted when she went natural: I went natural like sophomore year…. I cut off all my hair, and just like had really short hair. I cut it all off ‘cause I’m sick of having my hair not being healthy. My mom said it was ugly, and she wanted me to like get a perm or like a um texturizer, something in it to make the curl pattern different. I commend people that can go natural cause like I know I couldn’t. But all my sisters and my cousins have, and whenever we’re all around they’re just like “Why are you denying your African roots?” My family will say “Why are you tryna be like a White woman right now? You need to embrace your Black side.”
Theme 3: Ramifications and Resolution of Skin and Hair Messages
All of the women shared their experience with making sense of the hair and skin color messages and endorsements that their family members, and sometimes peers, communicated to them. These responses were classified into two subthemes. Many participants described a negative reaction to the racial socialization messages focused on skin color and hair that they received, which included self-criticism (Subtheme 3a). Some of these participants reported arriving at a positive space where they fully and proudly embraced their hair and/or skin color (Subtheme 3b).
Subtheme 3a: Self-criticism
Some women reported feelings of low self-esteem, and even depression, when their skin color or hairstyle did not “meet” the standards to which their parents, other family members, peers, or romantic partners believed that they should ascribe. After discussing standards of beauty for African American women, Rachel described issues with self-esteem and identity as pervasive in the community: I was super critical of myself. “Why can’t I look this way?”…like before, I wished I was White! I feel every Black girl goes through a phase where she has a hard time with her self-esteem and self-identity. My sister [went] through it, I have cousins who go through it, and I [went] through it.
The women used various tactics to cope with the messages they received about skin color and hair texture. For some women, coping manifested as attempts to appease others’ expectations; several women talked about limiting their time outside in an effort to pacify their family or friends’ opinions about perceived drawbacks of getting darker. Some women conformed by wearing a weave in their hair to meet the desired style or length as defined by family or friends. For Liz, coping involved disengaging from people she felt imposed their beliefs onto her. After having negative experiences with critics of her appearance, Liz shared: I choose to be around like-minded people who will not, like, challenge who I am. I pretend like it doesn’t exist, because it really frustrates me when, you know, people put [a] stigma on how you should be and how you should act because you look a certain way. I always had hair, so I didn’t know how it would look, doing the big chop…so like when I cut my hair like, oh my goodness, like I couldn’t take in how I looked! I wore like so much makeup to class. I never wear makeup to class…but I wore make-up. A lot of people gave me a lot of good comments. It was only me that was hard on myself, ‘cause like I don’t feel as pretty ‘cause I don’t have long hair right now.
Subtheme 3b: Reconciliation and Black girl resilience
Several of the participants described a process of reconciliation and acceptance of their skin color and hair texture. All of the narratives reflected a quest for ways to accept how they looked and feel confident in their attributes amid the conflicting messages they received from family and friends (e.g., Phelps-Ward & Laura, 2016). Michelle shared that she used to think less of herself but learned to embrace how she looked over time and through her lived experiences: I’m given what I’m given. I embrace it. I don’t have any negative views upon myself just because I’m Black or ‘cause I have a certain hair texture. I [realize] you’re born with what you have, and you have to work with it. It’s been like a long journey of me just becoming comfortable with myself. Because I [went] through this whole period of where I’m the only one who’s like me, who looks like me, who has hair like me. And I just need to love myself. I’m gonna love…my color and my skin and my hair and just accept myself for who I am. I’ve kinda reached to a point where I adamantly disagree with any type of rules. Like there is no [right] way to be Black. I’m a Black woman; there is no way to define me. I shouldn’t have a certain type of body style. There is no way my hair should look. I have to be confident in who I am and walk into a room for interview or something with a White man and say well you’re going to respect me. You’re going to take me seriously. I think going natural has made me more confident in who I am. You know saying this is my hair, this is the way it grows out of my scalp. I really don’t care what you have to say. That’s just what it is. I love being a Black woman.
Discussion
The current study advances the literature by illuminating the ways in which hair and skin color are included in gendered racial socialization. Families were the primary source of gendered racial socialization in these arenas. Consistent with Hughes et al. (2006), family messages were both direct and indirect; they were deliberate and spontaneous. And attitudes about Black women’s hair was a fundamental component of these messages, supporting those who extend colorism to include other physical features beyond skin colors (e.g., C. Thompson, 2009).
Similar to other studies, our data suggest that families are not the only agents communicating hair and skin-based messages to young, Black women (V. N. Adams & Stevenson, 2012; Martin & McAdoo, 2007). Romantic partners, friends, and classmates also perpetuated gendered racial socialization and messages about skin and hair hierarchies’ endemic to colorism, as did White peers. Such experiences underscore that colorism is one manifestation of the larger European hierarchy that affects Black Americans both intra- and inter-racially and in multiple settings (E. A. Adams et al., 2016; Burke, 2008; M. E. Hill, 2002).
Some participants in our sample reported that family members and other people in their lives conveyed affirming messages that taught them to be proud of their skin color and hair. These findings are consistent with the “raising resisters” and “oppositional narrative” approaches as reported by Ward (1996) and Wilder and Cain (2011), respectively. These parenting strategies can be construed as a type of cultural pride reinforcement (Stevenson et al., 2002), which is a form of racial socialization that helps build a positive racial identity and sense of self (Davis, Smith-Bynum, Saleem, Francois, & Lambert, 2017).
In some cases, participants described their parents’ disapproval of certain hairstyles, including short hair, natural hair, and brightly colored hair, as fear that they would be perceived negatively and/or experience discrimination in various settings (e.g., school, work; Russell et al., 2013). Researchers (Humphrey, 2008; Lewis, 1999) suggest that family messaging about hairstyle preferences appears to begin early in life through the emblematic ritual of Black mothers styling their daughters’ hair. This process of styling the hair is a major vehicle through which standards of beauty and physical attractiveness are conveyed, effectively delivering a message about daughters’ hair texture and style. This is central to the gendered racial socialization of Black women.
Family messages about hair texture and style represent a type of preparation for confronting racial bias within the context of colorism, with messages highlighting the prejudices and judgment about hairstyles Black women confront as they go about their lives (Hughes et al., 2006; Humphrey, 2008; Stevenson et al., 2002). Parental admonitions about hairstyles are communication strategies designed to minimize the effect of racism and discrimination aimed at Black women. Simultaneously, however, a portion of the gendered racial socialization messages about hairstyles and textures described in this study and others, also advance Eurocentric beauty standards. Thus, counter to the general narrative in the literature that racial socialization is positive and protective, it also reflects a type of internalized racism on the part of some Black parents.
Negotiating Gendered Racial Socialization Messages as a Developmental Process
Our results indicate that the young women in this study exercised varying degrees of agency in how they process gendered racial socialization messages about skin color and hair from various sources. A proportion of the women reported feeling trapped by negative narratives they had internalized about skin color and hair before finding a way to create a personal definition of their Black womanhood. Others reported a continued sense of struggle with these issues at the time of the study. Their poignant accounts point to aspects of racial, ethnic, and gender identity development that are intersectional in nature.
The ages of our participants suggest they were actively engaged in the process of gender, racial, and ethnic identity development at the time of data collection (Arnett, 2000; Marcia, 1980; Phinney, 1992). Participants’ resolutions of skin color and hair messages suggest that a developmental process may affect how they engage in individual meaning-making processes that inform their identities as Black women. Current theoretical models of racial, ethnic, and gender identity would generally argue that identity development in these specific arenas proceeds independently (e.g., Phinney, 1992). Our data suggest that these processes can operate dependently and inform each other. Thus, the current practice of investigating identity development by race, ethnicity, or gender separately is inadequate for understanding the intersectional experiences of Black women (Crenshaw, 1989; Warner, Settles, & Shields, 2018).
Rethinking Racial Socialization Theory
The challenge for some Black families, as they have conversations about race, is what some prominent scholars in the field have referred to as a “race paradox” (Landor et al., 2013; Wilder & Cain, 2011). That is, while families engage in racial socialization—a process known to shield children from the realities of racism and imbue in them a sense of racial pride—some families are simultaneously advancing colorism, which has harmful consequences. Consistent with previous research (E. A. Adams et al., 2016; Burke, 2008; Landor et al., 2013), participants recalled the promotion of colorism (whether intentional or unintentional) during their gendered racial socialization experiences.
Though novel and informative, it seems that the term “race paradox” does not highlight the full extent of the phenomenon from a theoretical perspective. The race paradox is about the racial socialization processes in Black families; it is not a paradox about their race, per se. Thus, we suggest the term be amended to the “racial socialization paradox,” more accurately reflecting the process in which the paradox manifests.
It is important to note that our data indicated that the racial socialization paradox is not uniform for all Black women. Though nearly all the women’s narratives corroborated the existence of the racial socialization paradox, some participants’ narratives did not. Women of varying backgrounds described family and friend affirmations for darker skin colors and/or natural hair; thus, they experienced messaging that ran counter to an endorsement of colorism. Other factors or axes of identity may have contributed to these women’s racial socialization experiences (e.g., contextual spheres; S. H. Allen & Mendez, 2018). Though we were unable to explore other factors or identities in the current study, we suggest researchers consider other influences of gendered racial socialization. It is plausible that validating messages will help buffer against other oppressions that Black women experience, as these messages promote pride, boost confidence, and enhance one’s sense of self.
Implications for Future Research
Research connecting theory about racial socialization messaging more generally to messaging to Black women about hair texture and hairstyle, vis à vis standards of beauty, has received little attention in the literature. Additional research that explores how hair is included in conversations about race is warranted for at least two reasons. First, the most recent natural hair movement, focused on the promotion of wearing and styling natural Black hair, has continued to flourish since the early 2000s (Jeffries & Jeffries, 2014; Spaulding & Metcalf, 2015). Wearing one’s hair naturally was a relevant experience for a majority of the participants in this study. Even participants who did not wear their hair naturally shared experiences of their family or friends who did. Thus, capturing individuals’ feelings about Black hair texture, length, and style is timely. Further, women (and men) who came of age during this movement are starting to have their own children. It would be interesting to examine the kind of messages that they and other socializing agents share with the next generation of Black girls.
Second, Black girls and women may experience criticism or bias from people in their social networks or institutions, e.g., school and work settings, because of how they style their hair (M. Allen, 2016; Manuel-Logan, 2013; Underwood, 2016). Additional research may help unpack the ways in which Black women prepare for and cope with criticism or discrimination in various settings. Scholars should further investigate the ways in which these standards are maintained as well as how the frequency in which Black women and girls have to confront these experiences can be reduced (Marira & Mitra, 2013; Norwood & Foreman, 2014). We believe that the support of family and others can help in this process.
Researchers have provided support for the assertion that Black women live in different gendered racial spaces than their male counterparts (Collins, 2000; Crenshaw, 1989; M. L. Greene, Way, & Pahl, 2006; S. Hill, 2001, 2002); we recommend that researchers draw on research paradigms beyond the gender-neutral, self-report measures of racial socialization currently in wide use (Hughes et al., 2006; Lesane, 2005; Stevenson et al., 2002). We echo other researchers regarding the need for valid measures of gendered racial socialization (e.g., D. L. Brown et al., 2016) in order to capture a more meaningful understanding of the experiences of Black women.
Last, though we recruited participants under the ethnic label “African American,” this study attracted Black women of diverse backgrounds, including those who were first and second generation Americans. We believe this heterogeneity made our findings and our understanding of the phenomenon of Black women’s physical attributes richer. Thus, we chose to retain our full sample and describe the participants with the more inclusive term “Black.” We encourage other scholars to be mindful of the ways that racial/ethnic identity may be fluid and be prepared to adapt accordingly. The knowledge gained may lead to policies and practices that produce meaningful experiences for a larger group of persons of color.
Practice Implications
We provide several recommendations for clinicians and practitioners who work with Black women and girls. First, sensitivity toward the extensive nature of colorism is imperative when working with both girls and women. It is important to understand not only the ways colorism affects Black women internally—for our sample, this included feelings of depression, lack of confidence, and anxiety—but also the ways in which Black families are responsible for conveying colorist messages. These findings can inform clinicians’ work with both individual patients and their family members. Given participants’ descriptions of colorism within school- and work-based climates and policies, it behooves practitioners to also consider the institutions and schools that have the potential to promote or exacerbate depression, anxiety, and other self-esteem issues (Blake, Keith, Luo, Le, & Salter, 2017; McGill Johnson, Godsil, MacFarlane, Tropp, & Atiba, 2017; Ryabov, 2013). Further, consideration of romantic partners, peer groups, and other non-family members is important, as such individuals may also reinforce negative racial socialization messages, or contradict those originating elsewhere (e.g., the workplace has different expectations and desires for hair than one’s family).
Second, although clinical training programs have made strides in training culturally competent therapists (e.g., Bean, Benjamin, & Bedell, 2002; McGeorge & Carlson, 2011; Taylor, Gambourg, Rivera, & Laureano, 2006), we appeal to clinicians to embrace the burgeoning trend of considering intra-group diversity. Being aware of, and inquisitive toward, nuanced experiences within broader demographic categories (e.g., race, class, ethnic group) may reveal dynamics that might have otherwise been ignored, aid in the efficacy of clinical services, and strengthen the therapeutic relationship with such clients, a critical aspect of the therapeutic process (Friedlander, Wildman, Heatherington, & Skowron, 1994; Shields, Sprenkle, & Constantine, 1991).
Last, we ask parents and other family members to be thoughtful of what they say to their children, both sons and daughters, in regard to their physical attributes. We recognize that these messages are generally well-intentioned, but in some cases, participants reported that they were hurtful and negative. Research has demonstrated messages about hair and skin color have the ability to harm the self-concept and self-esteem of girls and young women (Davis et al., 2017; Thomas & King, 2007). Further, these messages can complicate young Black girl’s identity development, particularly with regard to race and gender (Bailey-Fakhoury, 2014; D. L. Brown et al., 2016; Thomas et al., 2011; Townsend et al., 2010).
Strengths and Limitations
To our knowledge, ours is the first study to qualitatively examine Black women’s experiences about hair and skin color in the context of racial socialization. Further, our research extended what we know in general about racial socialization by adopting the lens of gendered experiences and exploring areas that have been historically overlooked in the racial socialization literature but are heavily tied to girls’ and women’s culture and race (i.e., hair, skin color). In addition, we explored these processes among college-aged students, an especially important time when one’s understanding of their race, gender, and other identities becomes fortified by everyday experiences (Arnett & Brody, 2008; Thomas et al., 2011).
We analyzed narratives from a diverse sample of young Black women. This diversity helped illuminate the similar and different experiences that Black women have around hair and skin color. And we employed a diverse team of researchers for data collection, transcription, and analysis, which proved fruitful in a number of ways: It allowed us to offer the participants facilitators to whom they could seemingly relate and thus increase their comfort and ease in discussing sensitive topics. The diversity of the research team also proved beneficial during the phases of analysis, as it allowed a space for a plethora of insights about the data to be presented and weighed by individuals with different backgrounds (i.e., race/ethnicity, gender, sexual identity, age). Qualitative scholars support such diversity on research teams and the benefits it provides (Baca Zinn, 1979; Stanley & Slattery, 2003).
It is also important to note the shortcomings of the current study. First, while the limited age range of our participants was intentional and provided a nuanced understanding of their racial socialization perspectives, our data cannot illuminate the full extent to which these perspectives might vary across age and developmental stage. Second, because the data for the current research project came from a broader study of gendered racial socialization—and not specifically of messages about hair or skin—we may have not captured the full extent of these types of messages and experiences. Thus, a study with a specific focus on the messages from family and/or other sources about skin and hair within gendered racial socialization might uncover aspects of these processes that we did not.
Conclusions
Using a theoretical framework that combined Black feminist intersectionality and racial-ethnic socialization (Crenshaw, 1989; Hughes et al., 2006), we explored the gendered racial socialization experiences of Black women as they received and made meaning of messages about skin color and hair. The women in this study, who represented different ethnic backgrounds, received and interpreted messages about skin color and hair length, texture, and style. The interpretation of messages about how one should, or should not, look as a Black woman was not a superficial process but rather a complex one. This study extends researchers' understanding about gendered racial socialization processes and provides evidence that these conversations include messages about physical appearance and self-image. It is important to continue to identify and employ gendered racial socialization practices that foster the healthy identity development for and wellbeing of Black women in schools, workplaces, and homes.
Footnotes
Appendix A
Authors’ Note
This research was presented at the 2014 conference of the Society of Research on Adolescence. The data analyzed in this study are not publicly available because of specifications outlined in the IRB-approved informed consent process. Requests for data access should be directed to the fifth author at
Acknowledgment
We would like to thank the numerous research assistants involved in this research and the young women who participated in this study.
Declaration of Conflicting Interests
The author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The author(s) disclosed receipt of the following financial supp ort for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article: The Consortium for Race, Gender, and Ethnicity at the University of Maryland, College Park funded this research.
